This Week’s Featured Watch #64 – Cosmotron X8 4-480040

I’ve been looking out for the date version of the 0840 Cosmotron since I hadn’t previously found an example – designated the 4840, models with this movement were launched in 1970 and run at 21,600 beats per hour. Since my funds were limited,  I took a punt on a ‘junk’ model on Yahoo Japan, especially because it has the date window at the more unusual 6 o’clock position. Described as not working, even after a battery change, it also had a damaged crystal. After checking that a new crystal was still available, and knowing that I could get it looked at at a later date by Paul at ‘Electric Watches’ I nabbed it, the only bidder, at just ¥1,800 – about £10 ($15). So not a huge loss if it were to prove beyond rescue. On arrival I could see that the dial and hands were in good condition – the hands are an unusual ‘see through’ frame design:

The cracked glass and wear to the case show it has been well used – the case also shows evidence of an original brushed finish.  But the dial and hands are nice:

I have found before that it is always worth trying a new battery even when a seller has already tried one. Here’s a shot of the 12 jewel movement, which thankfully appeared to be in clean condition, with new battery installed:

And to my delight it fired up! :)  Not only did it start to run, but it also keeps good time, and the date change works just fine. So this was turning into a bargain – and a new acrylic crystal made specifically for this model was soon ordered, again at little cost. The damage to the old crystal is even more obvious with the movement removed:

There’s no guarantee that crystals are still available, but Sternkreuz still stock one for this model:

       

This is a compression fit crystal, and fits directly into the case without a bezel. I’ve not fitted one like this before, so the ‘crack’ as the press located it in place was a bit unnerving! But all was well:

I cleaned and very lightly polished the case to revive it a little, and after re-installing the movement, here’s the result:

The case back is good condition, and shows a production date of April 1970:

So, the gamble in buying a ‘junk’ watch has paid off – always a nice feeling :)

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This Week’s Featured Watch #63 – the 67-9631 Chronograph

Citizen’s mechanical chronographs from the 1970s are relatively well known, especially the ‘bullheads’ with the two sub-register 8110A movement. Known at the time as ‘Challenge Timers’ Citizen’s range of models also included single sub-register models – in fact these were the first to appear for sale, in October 1972. The 8110′s were launched a few months later, in February 1973.

These single register models use the 8100A movement, and examples of these are generally speaking harder to find than the 8110 versions. They feature a minutes sub-dial, with a full size second hand, but no hours sub-register. The 67-9631 is one such model:

The wide ‘cushion’ style case with no bezel is unusual, and the dial is perhaps at its best out of the case:

The movement has the same specifications as the 8110 - it is high beat, running at 28,800 beats per hour and with the fly-back function:

The serial number gives a production date of April 1974:

The 8100s had only a short production run – I don’t think I’ve seen one later than 1974 – which of course helps to account for their scarcity these days.

Finally, this one is now on an original bracelet:

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Some Original Tools

I’m no watch maker, but it is good to be able to do some basic work, especially replacing crystals. So I recently got hold of this box:

A well used box :)  Inside are some very nicely made crystal and bezel fitting tools for ‘OR’ cases, i.e. ‘parawater’ :

Each tool comprises three pieces:

Instructions are included:

Fortunately for me, there are pictures as well as Japanese text:

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‘Speedy’ Restoration Thread Update

I’ve just updated the Speedy restoration page, adding another 67-9313 example just serviced and sorted by Brian. It’s a very nice white dial model in lovely condition. You can see it as #4 in the articles ‘Epilogue’ here: http://sweep-hand.org/brians-8110a-restoration-the-speedy-67-9313/

Thank you to Brian for his pic and notes, and to the owner for giving permission to include his watch in the article.

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Little Update on the 8200 Adorex

The watch was running a little fast on arrival – maybe 30 seconds or so per day. After one adjustment on the balance it’s now spot on :)

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The Week’s Featured Watch #62 – The Adorex (8200)

In 1974 launched the 8000 movement in the ‘Adorex’ model. The new design featured, for the first time for Citizen,  a rotor which wound in one direction. It was a high end model, high beat (28,800 beats per hour), with second setting (‘hacking’), hand winding and a fine adjuster on the balance:http://sweep-hand.org/2013/04/29/this-weeks-featured-watch-50-the-adorex-8000/

A year or so later Citizen launched the 8200 movement, with a range of automatic and hand winding models. The automatic also has uni-directional winding, and became Citizen’s workhorse model, in production for over 30 years. The ‘Eagle 7′ models are well known, appearing in the 1980s, but in the late 1970s one model adopted the Adorex moniker.

I have been looking for an example of the 8200, and to keep within my collection parameters (i.e. pre-1980), an Adorex from 1977 fits the bill:

The 8200 is a much more mundane movement than the 8000 – running at 21,600 beats per hour there is no fine adjuster and no ‘hacking’, although as with most Citizen automatics, it can be hand wound.

This model is featured in the 1977 catalog, where it is priced at ¥25,000, so it was reasonably expensive in its day. The catalog also confirms it is on its original bracelet:

There is one other ‘Adorex’ variant, with the 8050 movement, a revised version of the 8000. So if you are looking at an Adorex for sale, then look out for ’8000′, ’8050′ or this kind of case number – 4-82xxxx – to be sure you know what’s inside. I should be able to feature the 8050 in a few weeks’ time.

 

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Unusual Hour Markers – SM 7 from 1965

This rather tired SM7 Autodater from 1965 has a nice feature – raised hour markers at the 12, 6 and 9 o’clock positions that almost appear to be mounted on the underside of the crystal:

The markers cast a shadow on the dial, quite a nice effect. Here’s how it is achieved:

The SM7 is the day and date version of the SM range, and uniquely used the 23 jewel 4600 movement. The SM’s had a short production run using the older 4xxx base movement as seen in the Jet models, but with a swinging weight rotor rather than the circular geared type. In 1965 the 52xx movement was also launched, as seen in the Crystal Seven range, which was the more modern design at the time and quickly superseded the 4xxx.

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