Over 45 years old, but super accurate….

I’ve been wearing a 1967 Crystal Date for the past couple of weeks – this is the date only version of the Crystal Seven, and is one of the 52 Movement Family members.  This 17 jewel model has the 5401 movement in it (54 = date version, 52 = date and day version):

I really like the lumed hand set on this model, especially the elegantly slender minute hand. But what is really impressive is its time-keeping performance – I haven’t had to adjust it for two weeks, which is quite remarkable in my opinion for a watch of this age and with no recent service / regulation. I suspect many modern high end mechanical watches would do no better than this I suspect.

For a bit more information see here: http://sweep-hand.org/2012/05/10/this-weeks-featured-watch-32-the-crystal-date-17j/

Posted in Vintage Watches | Tagged , | 2 Comments

This Week’s Featured Watch #51 – the Diamond Flake

In 1962 Citizen introduced the beautifully named Diamond Flake based on the 0700 movement. Why this name? well a diamond flake would be thin, and at the time the 0700 movement was the thinnest Japanese design, measuring just 2.75mm deep – beating the Seiko Gold Feather by 0.2mm. I say ‘beating’ because there was something of a race to produce the thinnest movements, following the fashion for ever slimmer dress watches.

Here’s an ad from the time:

The movement was made with either 25 or 31 jewels, and later a date version was made (2700 movement, 25 jewels only). My example has the 25 jewels calibre:

The logo at the 12 0′clock position is unique to the Diamond Flake, and the narrow hands on this model emphasise the slender overall design:

The thin movement allows a slim case:

This is a hand winder of course, an automatic would have been necessarily thicker to accommodate the rotor and auto winding system. The gold finish of the movement indicates that this was a good quality model:

The case back, with production in September 1963:

Some models were depth rated to 40 meters, but these were essentially dress watches, wearing light and comfortable under the cuff.

Posted in Vintage Watches | Tagged , | 1 Comment

Citizen’s First Wrist Watch Movement

Following the last Featured Watch which presented the Adorex 8000, with its high beat movement and innovative regulator, I thought I’d contrast that with a post about Citizen’s very first wrist watch movement – the type ‘F’.

Following the establishment of the Shokosha Watch Research Institute in 1918 the first watches produced in 1924 were pocket watches, which were, of course, the fashion at that time. After its pocket watches were called ‘Citizens’ by the mayor of Tokyo the company re-formed itself as the Citizen Watch Company in 1930. And a year later the first wrist watches were produced, using a Swiss design in the form of the type F:

This is a sub-second design, i.e. it has a small second hand above the 6 o’clock marker, and is a relatively simple and basic design, running at 5 beats per second (18,000 beats per hour):

The type F was produced into the 1950s, but the design was changed quite significantly during its production run – the 1950s design had much more angular top bridge, and with a variety of jewelling, see this example:

Typical of their day, these are small watches – my early model in the first two pictures is only 27mm wide. I don’t suppose that in 1931 the people making these would have thought that from these small beginnings Citizen would become the world’s largest watch manufacturer….

Posted in Vintage Watches | Tagged , | 1 Comment

This Week’s Featured Watch #50 – the Adorex (8000)

In the early 1970s Citizen were making a range of high quality automatic mechanical and electro-mechanical watches as their production development reached its peak, just before the introduction of mass produced quartz models transformed the landscape. An example of Citizen’s expertise and innovation is the ‘Adorex’ line – especially those models with the 25 jewel 8000/8001 movement (technically the 8000A/8001A, but I don’t believe any other variants were made).

The Adorex models used two movements, during only a short production run starting in 1974 – the 8000 and the 8050. But it is the 8000 movement that is of greatest interest, since it has a unique feature not seen in any other model before or since, as far as I know….

Firstly here’s my example, which has a sparkling white dial in an otherwise conventionally designed stainless steel case:

The 8000 movement was the first to use a rotor which wound in one direction, which became the standard design a year or so later in the ubiquitous 8200 movement – the movement number is clearly stamped on the back, with a production date of February 1974:

Here’s the movement, with the arrow on the rotor showing the winding direction – these are high-beat, running at 28,800 beats per hour:

But uni-directional winding is not the unique feature….you may have noticed that there is no conventional fine adjuster on the balance, but there is a lever which locates in a slot:

And this is the unique feature of the 8000 Adorex – since this lever, which allows fine adjustment of the hairspring, is connected to the crown. So this allows regulation of timing without opening up the watch – it is activated by pulling the crown out to a third step, beyond time setting position, as seen in this scan of the instructions:

Pulling the crown out to the regulation position is not easy, it takes some force, presumably to avoid accidental activation. Here’s a video of the feature in use, with the back removed to clearly show what happens:

http://s282.photobucket.com/user/Sweephand/media/Adorex/AdorexRegulator_zpse51f7a56.mp4.html

The design was probably not deemed to be too practical – the degree of movement for regulation is necessarily small, and not being able to see the gear as it is moved would make it difficult to use without removing the case back. So it’s an innovation that was only seen in this model and therefore short-lived – yet fascinating to see and now to have in the collection.

And remember, if you are looking to acquire one of these, it is only found on the 8000/8001 movement, whilst the 8050 Adorex’s have the conventional type of fine adjuster.

Posted in Vintage Watches | Tagged , , | 1 Comment

This Week’s Featured Watch #49 – The X8 (Cosmotron) Chronometer

In 1970 Citizen produced two chronometer grade models in their electro-mechanical X8 Cosmotron range. One of these is the very rare titanium cased version, of which only 2000 were produced – it was the first watch globally to be made from titanium – I haven’t got one of those! See here for some images: http://sweep-hand.org/2011/05/25/japanese-auctions/

The other model is a little less scarce, and I managed to get hold of one of these some time ago:

The official certification was to the Japan Chronometer Association  standard  (rather than the Swiss COSC) but this is likely to have been no lower than the Swiss standard and may have been higher. The dial is marked accordingly:

The case is unique to this model, and is certainly unusual:

The case back is generally typical, showing production in August 1970, but it lacks ‘parawater’:

The 0820 movement was first produced in 1970, and has 19 jewels – it runs at 21,600 beats per hour, faster than the first of the electronic movements but slower than its successor which was upped to 36,000 bph. As with all chronometer grade models the movement is uniquely numbered (the 1.55v battery is missing in this pic):

This model retailed at JPY36,000 in 1970, more than the X8 Chrono Master, reflecting the  grade this watch achieved. It was, however a short-lived piece, soon replaced by the next  Cosmotron movement (the 7800 series) – whilst the whole of this hybrid technology was rendered obsolete when the quartz revolution began in the mid-1970s.

More info on the Cosmotrons can be found on this page: http://sweep-hand.org/the-x8-cosmotron/

Posted in Vintage Watches | Tagged , , | 4 Comments

Skin Diver & the Diver Page

I’ve now added KK’s images to the Diver Page :)

Posted in Vintage Watches | Leave a comment

Citizen’s Vintage 200m Diver – the 21 jewel ‘Skin Diver’

Although I shall be updating the diver page, I wanted to share some photos here first :)

‘KK’, a reader of this blog, got in touch with me to say that he is the owner of this rare piece, the 200 meter ‘Skin Diver’ –  this may have been Citizen’s first ‘true’ diver. It’s certainly a good candidate, since it was one of only two divers made with the 1120 movement in the early to mid-1960s, the other being the Jet Autodater 120m model (with 19 jewels) . KK asked if I’d like to use his photos here – needless to say I was extremely pleased to say yes, and I’m enormously grateful that he contacted me. Full credit goes to KK for these images. They are his photos, posted here with his permission – please do not post them anywhere else but feel free to link to this post:

This model uses the 21 jewel 1120 ‘Jet’ movement with its circular toothed rotor. The movement was first made in 1962, but unfortunately Citizen chose not to use serial numbers on these, so no production date can be determined. The case back has the typical scrolling for that period (early 1960s) and the unique model name:

The elegant dauphin type hands are lumed, whilst the second hand is plain, and the relatively narrow bezel has dots all round, and counts down rather than up as is more usual:

I particularly like the hour markers, which are beautifully shaped in a somewhat Art Deco style:

Thank you again to KK, it’s very good of him to allow me to share his photos.

Happy Easter! :)

Posted in Vintage Watches | Tagged , , | Leave a comment