The Week’s Featured Watch #62 – The Adorex (8200)

In 1974 launched the 8000 movement in the ‘Adorex’ model. The new design featured, for the first time for Citizen,  a rotor which wound in one direction. It was a high end model, high beat (28,800 beats per hour), with second setting (‘hacking’), hand winding and a fine adjuster on the balance:

A year or so later Citizen launched the 8200 movement, with a range of automatic and hand winding models. The automatic also has uni-directional winding, and became Citizen’s workhorse model, in production for over 30 years. The ‘Eagle 7′ models are well known, appearing in the 1980s, but in the late 1970s one model adopted the Adorex moniker.

I have been looking for an example of the 8200, and to keep within my collection parameters (i.e. pre-1980), an Adorex from 1977 fits the bill:

The 8200 is a much more mundane movement than the 8000 – running at 21,600 beats per hour there is no fine adjuster and no ‘hacking’, although as with most Citizen automatics, it can be hand wound.

There is one other ‘Adorex’ variant, with the 8050 movement, a revised version of the 8000. So if you are looking at an Adorex for sale, then look out for ‘8000’, ‘8050’ or this kind of case number – 4-82xxxx – to be sure you know what’s inside. I should be able to feature the 8050 in a few weeks’ time.

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Unusual Hour Markers – SM 7 from 1965

This rather tired SM7 Autodater from 1965 has a nice feature – raised hour markers at the 12, 6 and 9 o’clock positions that almost appear to be mounted on the underside of the crystal:

The markers cast a shadow on the dial, quite a nice effect. Here’s how it is achieved:

The SM7 is the day and date version of the SM range, and uniquely used the 23 jewel 4600 movement. The SM’s had a short production run using the older 4xxx base movement as seen in the Jet models, but with a swinging weight rotor rather than the circular geared type. In 1965 the 52xx movement was also launched, as seen in the Crystal Seven range, which was the more modern design at the time and quickly superseded the 4xxx.

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Bracelet for 67-9119 Chronograph Needed…..

Can anyone help ‘John-John’ (see comments on the Chronograph page – who is the owner of a 67-9119 chronograph? Sadly, the original bracelet is broken, so John-John is looking for a replacement. If you are able to help, and therefore want to make a French guy very happy, please post a comment to this post.

The original bracelet is this one:

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This Week’s Featured Watch #61 – 4-540298 Automatic, Export Model

This watch is a recent arrival, bought from eBay UK. I was interested to find this one since it is an export model using a 5400 movement, and not marked with a model name. Whilst watches for the Japanese market with this movement were named ‘Crystal Date’, ‘Compact’ or ‘540 Autodater’ , the export model simply carries the Citizen logo:

I was also interested in this example since it is a 54 model – previously I’d only seen this model with the later 74 movement – so it is quite unusual. The case number helps to identify the movement used, whilst the serial number gives a production date of October 1970 (late for a 54 series movement). The back is marked ‘parawater’ rather than ‘waterproof’ as on the dial:

The dark grey dial is framed by an oval case, which is nicely brushed, and this has survived the years without any scratches. The crystal is mineral glass rather than acrylic, as used in the Crystal Date and Crystal Seven models and again has survived without major trauma. The date wheel is printed red, as used on some of the 150m divers of the period whilst the hands are disappointingly very simple and plain:

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Back on-line, so back to blogging!

Normal service can now be resumed, so I’ll get on with replies to outstanding comments soon. Apologies for the delay if you’ve been waiting.

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Interruption to Normal Service…

I’ll be off-line for  a few days whilst some work is done on the house, so I won’t be able to respond to comments as quickly as I’d like. Please be patient, and I’ll reply as soon as I can :)

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Some Unusual Selections From Japanese Auctions

With credit to the sellers on Yahoo Japan for their pictures here are a few of the more unusual watches, which appear to be authentic (to me anyway!) that I’ve seen on the Japanese auctions. First is a Cosmotron, sold recently, and marked ‘Royal Elite’ – this is the only example with this dial that I’ve seen:

Another one-off (so far) is this ‘Elite Special’ Chronomaster:

The case back is typical Chronomaster:

Next is a ‘777’ Autodater – I’ve seen two of these, and this one is in very nice condition  – the ‘HMC’ logo on dial suggests this may be a Korean made model:

The case back is very nice too:

Finally a strap :) This is an original Chronomaster strap, and features a leather insert in the buckle:


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