This Week’s Featured Watch #75 – 4-722132

This week’s watch might be called a Leopard that has lost its spots 🙂  I came across this model for the first time recently, case number 4-722132, with 26 jewels, from August 1971:

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Although the 7200 movement with 26 jewels runs at 21,600 beats per hour (bph), the 7210 variant runs at 28,800 bph and is one of the Leopard family. I noticed that this example had a fine adjuster on the balance, a clear sign of a high beat movement. However, with no Leopard, ‘Superbeat’ or 28,800 logo  on the dial I was intrigued – in fact for another reason which I’ll come to shortly I was doubly intrigued. On arrival I quickly found 7210 stamped on the movement, so confirmed it’s the high beat version:

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Before buying I had of course wondered if it may be a so-called ‘franken’ watch, i.e using parts from different models. But I was able to find a couple of other examples of this watch, both with the exact same markings, and also without any of the usual Leopard’s markings. I could also see that the same dial code was evident, and one that is appropriate for a 72 model – 6-724850. So I am happy that this is a genuine model, and the first ‘Leopard’ that I have found without its ‘spots’.

The other feature that intrigued me is the bezel material, indicated by the case back code:

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I have seen ‘BLTI’ before, i.e on a black coated case, but not ‘SSTI’. See my example here: https://sweep-hand.org/2011/10/19/this-weeks-featured-watch-15-6501-with-tungsten-bezel/ 

I’ve been working on Citizen’s case material codes lately, and although these ‘TI’ codes are unfortunately notable by their absence, Citizen used Titanium Carbide (TiC) and Titanium Nitride (TiN) so could this bezel be TiC (as opposed to TiN which is gold coloured)?  But it now gets a bit more complicated! On other, slightly later models, Citizen used UHA (TiC) and UHAG (TiN) for their carbide cases and bezels, whilst I’ve seen some descriptions of TI bezels as tungsten carbide, hence my description of the BLTI model as tungsten. My titanium (not carbide) cased X8 Chronometer is marked TN….It’s possible therefore that Citizen used tungsten carbide at first, using TI as the material code (for a reason that is somewhat lost on me!)  and then adopted UHA for their Titanium Carbide models. I noticed on another example of this watch that the bezel was chipped on one side. Although tungsten carbide is very hard, it is relatively brittle, so that damage lends some additional credibility to it being that material, perhaps replaced later by titanium carbide as a better option. Any thoughts/more information is very welcome!!

Whatever the exact material of the bezel, from a cosmetic point of view it has an attractive grey appearance and certainly shows little or no signs of wear:

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All in all this is an interesting watch, with a good quality movement and an unusual case material and bezel combination.

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After Some Help…..

I’m after a favour 🙂 Does anyone have an account with Rudolf Flume Technik in Germany? I’m looking for a crystal they stock but a business account is needed…

Any help would be very much appreciated.

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Like Hen’s Teeth…..

……vintage Citizen watch parts are often hard to find, so finding hen’s teeth can sometimes seem more likely! Many can be just about impossible to find, and this is something that puts collectors off since repair of worn out or damaged watches can simply be a non-starter.

Occasionally though, and completely unexpectedly, parts do turn up.

I have a fairly rare Seven Star Yacht Custom with a poor dial, which I did not think I could improve.  I thought I’d have to buy another example in better condition. But last week I spotted a dial for sale on eBay – original dials are very rare anyway, but to find one for a Yacht Custom was a complete surprise. So I snapped it up and it arrived, from Brazil, today. Although this is not the correct box for this dial it’s always nice to get some of  Citizen’s original packaging:

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Now, technically this is not quite the correct part, since  Citizen made this model with both the 52 and the 72 movements inside. The latter has a frame round the day/date window, whilst the 52 does not. So I’ll keep the old dial, but fit the new one since it makes the watch so much more wearable. Now I just need a new crystal for it…….

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Chronometer Standards – Updated

I’ve just updated the page, by adding the COSC standards that were applied from 1973. It’s useful to have these on the same page to compare with Citizen’s standards.

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Citizen’s Chronometer Standards

I finally feel confident enough to publish a reference page on the standards Citizen used for their mechanical and electro-mechanical chronometers in the 1960s and 1970s. After a fair bit of research  I think I’ve reached the right conclusions, but I welcome any comments / observations especially if there’s anything you think I have missed or got wrong!

Page is here: https://sweep-hand.org/chronometer-standards/

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Work In Progress

Been busy with more research recently, so I hope to be publishing some new stuff soon. Together with a major update of the Movement Table,  I’ll have a comprehensive list of Citizen’s case material codes (I know, I should get out more!)

First though I’ll be uploading Citizen’s Chronometer standards, which apply to their high end Chrono Master, Leopard Chronometer, Highness and Glorious automatics as well as the hand winding Chronometer and Chrono Master models.

So please watch this space 🙂

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This Week’s Featured Watch #74 – Seven Star Custom Deluxe

Although recent Featured Watches have been higher grade models – a Chronometer and a couple of ‘Super’ examples – Citizen’s mid-grade offerings can also give very good performance. This week’s watch is one of those; from the Seven Star range it runs flawlessly and has not required any time-keeping adjustment over a two week period.

In 1965 Citizen launched the relatively well-known Crystal Seven range of automatic watches, using a variety of 52 movements. At the same time, the less well known Seven Star range was launched, using the 5270 and 5290 movements with 21, 23 (5270) and 25 (5290) jewels. As with the Crystal Seven, the Seven Star range featured ‘Custom Deluxe’ models which had less traditional design features such as split day and date windows and larger ‘cushion’ cases. Today’s example is one of the Custom Deluxe models, which use the 23 jewel version of the 5270 calibre:

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This model has a very diver-like black dial, with large lumed hour markers and wide, fully lumed hour and minute hands, but with a standard second hand. The lume still glows for a while too 🙂 Unlike the more traditional style of many of the 52 models the cushion case is large for its day, at about 45mm excluding the crown. Somewhat idiosyncratically the split day and date windows are different, with no frame on the day side. The black and white day and date wheels are also unusual – but they are the original ones, as per this ad from back in the day:

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My example has been regularly worn, and the mineral glass was scratched and chipped, but Yahoo Japan came up with the goods in the form of an original unused glass:

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Crystal replacement is straightforward (good job since I did it 🙂 ). After removal of the movement the bezel is carefully prised off, fortunately exposing an undamaged crystal gasket, and the new crystal goes back in. The dial is gloss black and is in very good condition:

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The bezel is pressed on, with a satisfying click – I have a set of original Citizen nylon(?) dies which are crucial for this task. Inside the back is a watchmaker’s service date of H (Heisei) 13-1-15. This is 15th January 2001, as derived from the current Emperor’s rule who came to power in 1989. However, the year is calculated from 1988. I understand that ‘Heisei’ will be Emperor Akihito’s posthumous name – his father was Emperor Hirohito whose posthumous name is ‘Showa’:

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The 23 jewel 5270 movement is running very well, and looks clean and in good shape. The 52 family of movements run at 18,000 beats per hour, with quick set date and the day set first by winding back and forth past the 12 o’clock mark. The movement doesn’t ‘hack’ – although the 25 jewel 5290 does have that feature. The automatic movement can also be hand wound:

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The case back gives a production date of August 1968, but has the older style case/model number of ACSS 3201 – I believe these can also be found with the later style case number of 4-520211. Nice to see the Seven Star logo repeated on the back:

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My example didn’t come with its original bracelet (see the ad above), so I’ve put it on a non-Citizen vintage bracelet which I think suits the style of the piece:

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The watch is very comfortable to wear, whilst the strongly contrasting hands / markers / date disk also make it very easy to read. The only weakness is the black day disk which can be hard to read – fortunately I usually know what day it is…

This watch is a good example of a fine time-keeping piece that hasn’t cost too much money. In good condition and serviced properly the Seven Star line, and the Crystal Sevens too, can give very good service.

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Citizen Movement Table, 1931 to 1980

My ISP is ending my free web-space, so the Movement Table is now hosted directly here on the blog – this actually makes it quicker and easier to access.

When I have time, I will review the Table and make amendments as necessary, so if you have any suggestions / corrections please let me know.

The Table can be accessed via the Movement Table page: https://sweep-hand.org/movement-table/

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Citizen Challenge Golf – A Mystery Solved

In the early 1970s Citizen produced their ‘Challenge Golf’ models – with a score counter complication  and high-beat (28,800 beats per hour) these are interesting and possibly unique watches. With round or ‘tv’ style dials they use the 7760 movement, part of the ‘Leopard’ family, in black coated cases with either gold or stainless steel bezels. See here for more info: https://sweep-hand.org/2011/06/07/this-weeks-featyured-watch-6-the-challenge-golf/

Although some of them have conventional case backs, many have a recess on the back, apparently designed for a medallion. But one of my examples, as with all the others I’d seen, have no medallion:

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But recently an example sold on Yahoo Japan – with a medallion! But it’s not a conventional medallion – it’s an insert that can be personally engraved for example to mark a competition victory:

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This is the only example of this watch with the medallion in place I’ve seen, but you only need to see it once to solve the mystery 🙂

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If You Like A Good Back Story….

I’m very pleased to tell you that I’ve just published a new page 🙂  But it isn’t written by me, but by our Dutch friend Bert. He recently acquired a very nice Citizen diver, after making contact with the seller, Kelvin, through this blog. Sounds like an ordinary kind of transaction? Well not really since Bert was very interested in the history of the watch, and Kelvin very kindly told his – and the watch’s – story.

Bert promised to do a piece for the blog about the watch, and he has now done just that. And what a fascinating story it is – and with their full permission, I’ll leave Bert and Kelvin to tell you the rest…

Kelvin and his B52806: the story of two Vietnam Veterans

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