Want An Original Citizen Bullhead? – A Quick Buying Guide


Citizen’s 8110A chronograph automatic high beat movement is a fine piece of engineering – compact in design with hand winding and ‘fly back’ capabilities it is a great addition to a collection. The model that it most often seen for sale – by a long way – is the Challenge Timer, now more usually called a ‘bullhead’. This model had a much longer production run than the other models in the 8110A line-up, and the ‘bullhead’ style is a popular design for today’s buyers. I’ll use the original and therefore ‘proper’ name of Challenge Timer 🙂

Of course it’s good to see vintage chronographs for sale, often at reasonable prices, but there are issues to look out for if you are looking for an original Challenge Timer. And even if you are not after an original piece, it may be useful to know a little about it and what may have been changed or replaced, especially if the seller describes the watch as ‘rare and collectable’, or something like that.

As well as this post, my page on the automatic chronographs (https://sweep-hand.org/citizens-vintage-chronographs/) also provides reference information and images. Although I’ve tried to make this as comprehensive as possible, because there are no full historical records available, more data on original pieces may yet emerge, and I will of course update my information accordingly. And I am more than happy for questions to be asked and /or additional information to be provided to enhance what we know already.

I’m not going to say anything about values here – I suggest searching auction sites for completed listings or live auctions as the best way to get an idea of current prices.

1. General Points:

Five Challenge Timer models were produced, only one of which was cased in stainless steel – the octagonally shaped 67-9356. The rest have ‘base metal’ cases, albeit with stainless steel case backs. Two have black coated cases, and one had a gold plated case. One model the 67-9011, the one most usually seen in fact, has a finely brushed base metal case – I’m not sure of the material, but it may be a nickel alloy. This is a satin finish, not polished – only the 67-9356 stainless steel model has a polished case (see this post for reference images: https://sweep-hand.org/2012/12/16/challenge-timer-bullhead-original-case-finish/). And other than the 67-9356, the bezels were finished in contrasting colours – so, for example, the gold plated model has a black bezel. See Section 2 for a summary of the case and bezel finishes, and dial variants.

Case backs are important! Not only to keep dust and water out, but also to provide information on the model. So they are key to determining (a) that the case back goes with the rest of the watch, and (b) that the case and bezel are correct for the model. Always look for a case back image when looking at a watch for sale, and ask for one or to be told what’s on it if a photo is not provided. For information on dating a watch from its serial number, please see here: https://sweephand.wordpress.com/wp-admin/post.php?post=857&action=edit

Besides the serial number, the case back will provide the case number – 4-901xxx, and usually the model number – 67-9xxx as well as a case material code, e.g ‘SSB’. All Challenge Timers have a case number starting with ‘4-901’, whilst the rest will vary according to the model.

The case material code is very useful since it provides case and bezel materials and colours. The third letter in the code refers to the bezel, so for example ‘SSB’ equates to a stainless steel case, with black bezel, whilst ‘BLG’ refers to a black case with gold bezel. I see a lot of Challenge Timers that have been de-plated and then polished or brushed, or even nickel plated, yet retain their original case back – most commonly ‘GPB’ – which describes their original appearance. One additional important point to note – the base metal model has a case material code of ‘SSB’ which is a bit misleading! However, the case back clarifies this since it will have ‘base metal top’ stamped on it.

Similarly, I see a lot of bezels polished back to metal, with the original black coating or gold plating removed. The bezels do get chipped and worn, so it is understandable to some extent that they are cleaned off. Sometimes they are re-painted, but this is unlikely to be very durable.

This brings us to dials – there has been an increasing supply of after market dials, and they are produced in a wide variety of colour combinations. Original dials feature just five primary colours: Silver, Black, Gold, Green and Grey. Sub-register dials are black on most models,  white/silver on one and grey on another, whilst some also have multi-coloured highlights. It’s best to refer to the Automatic Chronograph page to see the various dial combinations and dial codes, which are found between the 4 and 5 o’clock markers. Also please use that page to study the hand types and colours, since they are sometimes replaced and may not be true to the originals.

2. Model Numbers / Case Numbers and Case Material Codes:

Here is a quick reference guide to the original models and the all important case back information:

Model #:      Case #(s):         Primary Dial Colour:        Case Material/Bezel:

(none)        4-901096       Green                                Black, Stainless Steel (BLS)

67-9011      4-901177       Silver, Black or Grey   Base Metal, Black (SSB)                                                                                                                                

 67-9011     4-901053       Silver                                 Base Metal, Black (SSB)

67-9011     4-901011        Silver                                 Base Metal, Black (SSB)

67-9020     4-901193        Gold                                  Gold Plated, Black (GPB)

67-9143     4-901134        Gold                                  Black Coated, Gold (BLG)

67-9143     4-901088        Gold  (dark)                  Black Coated, Gold (BLG)

 67-9356    4-901223        Silver or Black              All Stainless Steel (SS)

3. Other Points To Consider:

I would advise to always ask to see a photograph of the movement if it’s not already provided – look for a ‘clean’ movement without corrosion.  Check that the chronograph functions are working correctly, and that the chronograph hands snap back to zero (the 12 o’clock position) when the chronograph is reset, or restarted using the fly back feature.

Also check that the quick set date and day mechanisms are working correctly (although I have known where a seller didn’t know how to quick set the day – it’s done be pressing the chronograph re-set button when the crown is pulled out one step).

Case finish – I have seen several examples of the 67-9011 ‘bullhead’ Challenge Timer where, at first glance, they appear to be in just about mint condition. The case looks flawless and the original satin finish seems to be present. But, on closer examination, all is not quite as it seems since the condition has been attained by a re-finish. To achieve this, and to remove all the dings and scratches caused by years of wear, a considerable amount of metal is removed. Also, bear in mind that what looks like a little used example may in reality have led a hard life, so the movement may be worn and in need of a full service, and possibly replacement parts too.  Paying a high price for an apparently ‘mint’ watch and later finding that a tired movement needs to be serviced is a considerable expense in total. My tip for checking whether a case has been seriously re-finished is to look at the back, and particularly at the size and shape of the triangular lugs. These are larger at the top of the case, but each pair should be the same size and shape. Here is my example, with these areas highlighted – note how they are prominent, symmetrical and evenly sized (although one of the lower ones is not clear in this image, but you can see the shape and sizes of each pair):

Compare to this back, where the effect of heavy case re-finishing has reduced the size of the lugs and left them unevenly sized too:

Bear in mind that parts are hard to come by, and are most likely to be available only through buying a donor watch or movement, and servicing will be expensive – and you’ll need to find a competent watch repairer who is able to work on a mechanical chronograph. Members of the relevant forums may be able to make recommendations.

159 Responses to Want An Original Citizen Bullhead? – A Quick Buying Guide

  1. JAY48 says:

    Hi Stephen,
    Thanks for an informative and very helpful article!
    Regards.

  2. jason_recliner says:

    Excellent article – thanks for your efforts. I have posted links to this at a couple of watch forums as it is extremely useful information, with so many frankens and poorly ‘restored’ examples out there.

  3. sweephand says:

    Thanks for your comment, and for posting links, much appreciated 🙂

    Stephen

  4. Alex says:

    Hy Stephen,
    I saw on Ebay uk some citizen new old stock from the mihaitar user. I tried to look on internet about the numbers on the back (as far as I could decipher) but couldn’t find anything. Do you know them? Are they replicas? Because I’m in love with one model 🙂
    Thanks in Advance
    Alex from Romania

  5. Mike Wilensky says:

    I currently own a reconditioned Citizen Bullhead chrono with a black face and silver/grey sub-dials. I am very pleased with the watch. A beautiful little machine that keeps good time and harkins back to an era before digital this and digital that and cell phone clocks. Love it…a true collector’s item!

    • sweephand says:

      Hi Mike – sorry for slow response, but been away for a few days. In good condition these are very nice watches 🙂

      Stephen

      • Mike Wilensky says:

        Stephen, I was wondering why the price seems to fluctuate daily on the Citizen Bullhead chronograph watches, especially from my source for the watches in Thailand?

        • sweephand says:

          Hi Mike, good question! I don’t follow prices much, so I just had a look at recently completed auctions. To be honest I couldn’t make much sense of the varying prices. Some obviously refurbished models with after market dials sold in the UK and Europe at fairly high prices, whilst similar pieces in the Philippines, from a reputable seller who describes them properly, were a lot less. I supposes that there will always be some fluctuation in auction sales, partly dependent on who happens to be looking for a particular model. What struck me most of all was that almost all the sales were of refurbished examples, with after-market dials etc. I know that these can still be attractive watches, but it must be hard to find original examples.
          Stephen

  6. Mike Wilensky says:

    Stephen, the day of the week “quick set” button does not work right on my watch. I am thinking of returning it to the original seller. ALSO, the day of the week for our English FRIDAY is abbreviated as”FRE” What language is this?

    • sweephand says:

      Hi Mike, firstly looks like the day wheel is in German – Freitag is Friday. Sorry to hear that there is a problem with the quick set 😦 The day quick set is unusual on these – i.e. using the bottom pusher, is that what is not working properly?

      Stephen

      • Mike Wilensky says:

        Stephen, sometimes the day of the week flips over on its own, sometimes not. I just manually rotate the crown to reset; it seems to be less “wear and tear” on the mechanism this way. Incidentally, I replaced the watch’s original-style bracelet with a beautiful black leather strap. It really improves the overall appearance of the timepiece, in my opinion. Thanks for your feedback! Mike(aka Chronographguy).

        • sweephand says:

          Hi Mike – it’s not a big problem if you can’t quick-set the day. Most vintage watches before the late 1960s didn’t have it anyway.

          I prefer leather to steel most times so I can see why you are liking it on a good quality strap.

          Stephen

  7. Pingback: Citizen Bullhead 8110

  8. k_sze says:

    Speaking of case backs, I have been looking around the Internet for these bull heads. And there seems to be quite a bit of variation in the case backs I see. Some of them are probably fake. Could you post some pictures of ones that you are confident to be authentic (maybe with some random digit of the serial numbers blurred out, to be safe; I just want to know the general layout and stamp quality to expect).

    • sweephand says:

      Hi k_sze,
      I’m not sure I’ve seen fake case backs, but I have seen the wrong case back fitted, or the watch case has been re-finished which makes the case back seem wrong. This is usually where someone removes the gold plate and the case back still shows the case code ‘GP’. Some case backs may also have been heavily polished which can make the marks shallower and look different. Here’s the case back on mine, which I think is typical:

      Here’s an example that looks to have been polished, but not too heavily:

      There are variations, this one is the gold cased model:

      If you see any that you are worried about perhaps you can post a link here and I can take a look,
      Stephen

      • k_sze says:

        For example, even within the same model, the layout varies:

        http://s1091.photobucket.com/user/julianbega/media/julian%20begas%20album%203/citizen%20bullhead%20impecable/DSC_0148_zpsb80b83a2.jpg.html

        The pictures are of a three watches of the 67-9356 model (although the first two have the white dial and the last one has the black dial).

        You can tell that the layout of the first two are similar enough – with the brand, case number, serial number, and model number filling mostly the bottom half of the circle – whereas the last one fills up the whole circle.

        I’m suspicious of the last one.

        • sweephand says:

          Thanks for the links. The third one is the odd one out, and searching on the web only shows matches with the first two so I understand your suspicion. Unfortunately there’s no definitive information available for vintage Citizens so the different case back could be ok – got to have a big ‘?’ for now though, until / unless we can find more examples of that design.

          Stephen

      • k_sze says:

        Thanks for the confirmation. At least now I know I am justified to be suspicious. 🙂
        Great posts, by the way, this and the other post about vintage citizen auto chronographs!

  9. k_sze says:

    Hello Stephen,
    I spotted a 67-9356 a couple of days ago. Somehow, upon inquiry, the seller tells me that the model does *not* have flyback function. Is that possible? Or maybe it’s just the seller not knowing how to use it? What’s the right way to trigger the flyback (so I can ask the seller to test it)?

    • k_sze says:

      Never mind. The seller just rechecked and has confirmed that it’s flyback and is working.

      • sweephand says:

        Hi k-sze,
        here’s a pic of the two types of 9038 backs, both of which I’m sure are original:

        So maybe there were two versions of the 9356 backs, similr to these. Therefore I wouldn’t conclude that the one we’re suspicious about is fake, although it would be good to see a few more like it!

        Stephen

  10. sweephand says:

    Hi k_sze,
    Good to hear the fly-back is working 🙂 I’ve been looking at case backs and although they are not 9356’s there are two styles on the 6038’s. Not done pics yet but will try to do some later this evening.
    Stephen

  11. Mike Wilensky says:

    Thanks for the info, Stephen. Yes, I imagine that after all these years, most of the bullheads have had reconditioned dials;I used to own an original Seiko bullhead bought in 1978(base Army PX).
    After only 5 or 6 years, the dial faded a bit, esp. the luminous hour hand and minute hand. I had to get them replaced as the watch would no longer glow at night!

  12. alantebbutt says:

    Hello looking to find the date of my stainless steel octagon bullhead , the No on the rear is 91202477

    Thanks
    Alan

    • sweephand says:

      Hi Alan, thanks for visiting my bl;og. The production date of yours is December 1979 (from the ‘912’ in the serial number). I don’t think these would be made as late as 1989, and they certainly weren’t made before 1972/3.

      Stephen

  13. rinkaan says:

    i have recently bought a second hand recon bullhead, but i do not know how to set the day on the watch itself, along with how to the handwinding . Would you be kind enough to let me know how to do so ? sorry for the dumb qn!

    • sweephand says:

      Hi and thanks for visiting my blog. To set the day, pull the winding crown out one step so that you can set the date, then press the chrono reset button to change the day. On a bullhead this is the button to the right of the winding crown as you look at the dial. To hand wind, turn the winding crown clockwise when in the normal running position.

      Hope this is clear and that all is working correctly on your watch,
      Stephen

  14. mickey says:

    I just bought a reconditioned bullhead, and I am not sure how to adjust the bracelet, there are no arrows to indicate which way to apply pressure. I have no idea if it is an after market recreation or if the bracelet is original. Any input would be really useful.

    This guide was extremely useful for navigating all the bullheads out there on the Internet. Thanks.

    • sweephand says:

      Hi Mickey, thanks for visiting my blog, and I’m glad it has been helpful. As Mick has said a jeweller / watch repairer could easily make the bracelet adjustment. However if you want to try it, if you have a loupe or other magnifier, have a look at the pins in your bracelet – if one end is solid, and the other end is split, then you would push the pin out from the solid end. Remember which side of the bracelet is which and then you can replace the pin in the same direction – i.e. press the solid end in to locate it.

      Stephen

  15. Mike Wilensky says:

    Mickey, I happen to also own a Citizen Bullhead chronograph…it came with a reproduction “original” bracelet which was ENGRAVED with the Citizen logo.An original Citizen bracelet that came with this watch should have the Citizen logo STAMPED(letters:CITIZEN in capitals and raised in relief) into the stainless steel buckle;original bracelets sell for between $70-$80.00, so your bracelet is probably not an original.I don’t believe that there were any adjustment arrows stamped on the original bracelet(as is common now with modern watches); take it to a jeweler and he/she can adjust for you no problem.Goof luck with your watch!

  16. Pedro says:

    Hi Stephen
    First of all congratulations on this site, I recently purchased a Citizens Men’s wind up watch thru Ebay, I’m sending you the page on E bay that has the pictures of the watch I purchased, After reading almost your entire blog, The back casing of my watch has no serial number. This is the only information it has in the back Citizen, water resistant, stainless steel, 4-022845-SMH, then it says 0200, 63-4832..It did come with a new expansion bracelet, and the watch is in mint condition and working perfectly. I only paid $25.00 US dollars for it. Just wondering since it does not have a serial number in the back, if its a fake, and more or less when was it made…The seller told me he thought this watch was dated between the 60’s or 70’s
    Please let me know if you’re able to see the pictures from Ebay..
    Thanks in advance

    • sweephand says:

      Hi Pedro, thanks for visiting my blog and your kind comment.

      Although I’m unable to see the eBay pics of your watch, I found another example. Yours is a correct and legitimate model, certainly not a fake. For some reason Citizen did not put serial numbers on some of their watches and this is one of them! The 0200 mark, and the case number – 4-022845 – tell us that this uses the Homer hand winding movement which was first used in 1960 and made right through to around 1980. The watch is from the 1970s, since the case is marked water resistant – before 1970 and at the latest by 1973, Citizen used the term ‘parawater’ which meant ‘waterproof’. Around 1970 manufacturers could no longer say their watches were waterproof and had to use resistant. Unfortunately the lack of a serial number means we can’t pin it down to an exact year, but mid -1970s is pretty close.

      Stephen

  17. Pedro says:

    Hi Stephen
    Thanks for replying so fast, I appreciate your information regarding my watch, I took it today to a watch repair person to have it checked and cleaned .. when he opened it there was no serial number inside or inside the back case either, and he indeed said it was an original and not fake, it only said Citizen 21 jewels Japan inside, the face is blue with the citizen branding on the upper part of the face and 21 jewels in the bottom of the face and of course the information I previously sent you about the back case..and on the crown it has CTZ, But anyways i’m very happy to have purchased it and most important it still works just fine and considering how old the watch is ,its in mint condition.. Wish I could send you pictures of it since you weren’t able to see it in the Ebay link I sent . That way if you’d like to post the pictures for others to see as another example of how some citizen watches didn’t get a serial number and that they aren’t fake. If interested id be more than glad to send you the pictures to an email or so..it would be like my little contribution of history on your site
    I’m glad I bumped into your site it has made me appreciate even more a vintage watch
    Keep up with the excellent work !
    Thanks once again

  18. Pedro says:

    Hi Stephen
    Yes that is the watch i purchased on eBay, im glad you were able to see them , as the seller stated it came with a new expansion bracelet, im thinking that originally it mustve had a leather strap or so..but anyway it looks awesome…i hope the pictures of my watch are of any help to your site
    Thanks again for getting back to me
    Pedro

  19. Phillip says:

    Hi there, thanks for this page! Just wondering, how can you tell the year based on the information on the back of the watch? Is there a chart or is it encoded in the serial number?

    • sweephand says:

      Hi Phillip, thanks for visiting my blog – the way to date a vintage Citizen is via the serial number, plus knowing which decade the watch was made in. Take a look at the page ‘Vintage Citizen Case Backs’ (please follow link beneath the home page banner since WordPress is not letting me add the link here at the moment). At the bottom of the page you’ll see how to do it – if you need any help on the decade in which the watch was made please get back to me.

      Stephen

      • Phillip says:

        Thanks, I appreciate the help. On Ebay, I notice what seems to be a lot of variety on the color of the minute/second hands. Most seem to be metal with a thin luminescent strip in the center. I’ve found others that claim to be 100% authentic that looks like the hands are half painted white/luminescent. Are both styles legitimate?
        Same observation regarding the chrono hands. Some seem so red hot they look almost pink. Thanks for your insights!

        • sweephand says:

          Hi Phillip, as far as I know the original hands for the standard ‘bullhead’s are metal with lumed centres. The models with black / grey dials (including the octagonal one) use the white / lume hands, which are also found on other 8110 models. The white dialled octagonal model uses a black / lume hand set. The images on the Chronograph page provide what I think are the original models for reference. There are after-market red hands, which could fade to pink over time, but they are not an original colour.

          Stephen

          • Phillip says:

            Thanks again. Since looking for a bullhead I’ve noticed all these little variations probably because of so many after market parts, so it raises a lot of questions!

  20. Phillip says:

    Hi Stephen,
    As you mention in your post, a lot of these watches have the black bezel polished off because the original paint in bad condition. Is there anyway to restore the bezel that looks good and is durable? It definitely looks better black in my opinion, but those seem difficult to find. I’m looking for a white/silver dial in case you have any leads! Thanks

    • sweephand says:

      Hi Phillip, thanks for visiting my blog 🙂 Citizen was one of the earliest makers, if not the first, to use black coatings on their watches. I don’t know exactly which method they used in the 1970s – not sure if it was the now well known PVD type, or something else. I agree that a black bezel looks better than a polished metal one. Chips can be touched up using a black marker pen, but if the case / bezel is significantly worn then touching up will not be sufficient. Paint is not durable unfortunately, so I suppose the answer would be to get it re-coated, but a little Googling on that subject suggests it could be expensive (although that is for a whole case & bezel).

      Original dials are hard to find, and are likely still to be in an original case! I don’t know of anything available to the moment. I can only suggest searching eBay – ‘Citizen Bullhead’ seems to find most things, or try asking on relevant forums just in case somebody has some spares.

      Stephen

      Stephen

  21. eva varga says:

    Hi I really love your blog. SO informative! Thank you.

    I am looking at purchasing one of two watches and do not know if they are original… would you please see what you think?

    here are the links: https://www.etsy.com/au/listing/165655533/citizen-chronograph-tachymeter-black

    and https://www.etsy.com/au/listing/170245101/say-your-offer-vintage-watch-citizen?ref=favs_view_4

    • sweephand says:

      Hi Eva, thanks for visiting my blog, and I’m pleased you have found it useful. I’ll email you with my comments on the watches you are looking at, hope that’s ok,

      Stephen

  22. TonySpektr says:

    Hi Stephen,
    Great site and a fantastic article.
    Why do I get the feeling it’s going to be expensive reading it… Ooo cosmotrons…

  23. Tom Greenall says:

    Hi Stephen
    Thanks for such an informative blog!
    I’ve just found this Bullhead on ebay, do you think its legit?
    http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/COLLECTIBLE-VINTAGE-CITIZEN-BULLHEAD-CHRONOGRAPH-AUTOMATIC-WATCH-NICE-/271436809984
    Been looking out for one of these for a while which isn’ being sold out of Peru / Philippines!
    Any thoughts would be great.

    Thanks in advance
    Tom

    • sweephand says:

      Hi Tom, thanks for visiting my blog, and for your kind comment 🙂 I’ll email you about the watch you are looking at if that’s ok,

      Stephen

  24. dfkafka says:

    This article just save me from spending $280 on Chronograph rebuild. For example none the case and dial of the watch looked amazing but the neither of them matched up with the back case serial number.

  25. Geoff says:

    Hello, Stephen. I’ve just bought my first chronograph, a Citizen single register chrono with the 8100 movement. This is the page on Ebay: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/111333254347?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649. I should maybe have read your blog beforehand, but hadn’t set out with the intention of buying one. I’m pleased with the watch, even though it gains about five minutes in twelve hours (I can’t tell over a twenty four hour period, because it stops after about for hours if a take it off at night, having worn it all day!) I feel a trip to my watchmaker coming on. I’ll try and get some proper pics to you.

    • sweephand says:

      Hi Geoff – if the watch is otherwise functioning ok, then it sounds like a thorough clean and service is what is needed. I like the 8100 models, and they are generally a bit rarer than the 8110 ones. You’ve perhaps realised that this model should have a black case:

      Since the rest of the watch looks correct, the original coating has probably been removed no doubt because of wear and tear over the years.

      Stephen

  26. Mike Wilensky says:

    I like the retro chronograph watches as they tend to use more hues of orange and blue!

  27. Ricardo Oscar Fiegel says:

    Oi Stephen ,gostei muito do seu post ,estou de olho em um Bulhead ,sera que você poderia analisar ele pra mim e me dizer se esta certo ,adjunto link. Muito obrigado .
    att Ricardo

    • sweephand says:

      Hola Ricardo, gracias por visitar mi blog. Me temo que usted está mirando el reloj ha sido elaborado de varios modelos diferentes. Es el caso de los 67-9356 octagonal, fondo de la caja es de un 67-9143 (estuche negro con dial de oro) y la esfera es de un 67-9011 (el más común ‘ Coto’). ¿Es uno para evitar que en mi opinión.

      [Hi Ricardo, thanks for visiting my blog. I’m afraid the watch you are looking at has been put together from several different models. The case is from the octagonal 67-9356, the case back is from a 67-9143 (black case with gold dial) and the dial is from a 67-9011 (the most common ‘bullhead’). So it is one to avoid in my opinion.]

      Stephen

    • sweephand says:

      Hi Spiros, thanks for visiting my blog. Here’s what I think of the watch in the link you posted. The dial is a poor quality after market replacement – the ‘Citizen’ logo is totally wrong, no lume on the hour markers. All the hands are after market, and the sub-dial & second hands are not correct for this (or any other 8110 model). The main hands are fairly poor copies of the originals. The case has been heavily polished, so some of the lines and the overall finish are wrong. The case back is from a 67-9143 bullhead, which has a black case and gold plated bezel – it looks like that the coating and plating have been polished off and the bezel painted black. You can see traces of the original black coating around the chronograph buttons (at least the seller posted some decent images!). The bracelet is not correct for this model. The seller’s description that the watch and bracelet are ‘original’ is, therefore, more than a little misleading!

      Stephen

  28. Spiros says:

    Damn … I already paid for it … 😦

    • sweephand says:

      Ouch! Well, you could rightly say it is not as described. It is far from original so the description is misleading, and there’s no mention of the replacement parts. You could contact the seller if he hasn’t shipped it – if he is honourable he may agree to refund without the hassle of shipping and you returning it. He says he will give full refund if ‘not as described’.

      Stephen

    • sweephand says:

      I should have said as well that the crown is not original – it should be signed ‘CTZ’, so that’s another point you can raise.

      Stephen

  29. Spiros says:

    Thank you … I ll try … Could you point some decent cases of original citizen 8110 bullhead watch??? Or even the e210 though i know is difficult to find … Thank you very very much ….

    • sweephand says:

      That’s a smart looking piece – I didn’t know that there was an eco-drive ‘bullhead’!

      Just sent you an email about the vintage model.

      Stephen

  30. Gyula Kozma says:

    Hi Stephen, I’ve just found your site, I’m looking at a few CItizen chronographs, it is very helpful to find such an excellent and informative source about them. 🙂
    I’d like to ask your opinion about this item: http://www.ebay.com/itm/191356007911?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
    Thanks in advance,
    Gyula from Hungary

    • sweephand says:

      Hi Gyula, thanks for visiting my blog and for your kind comments 🙂 These are my observations – there are some issues in my opinion, if you are looking for an original piece. Firstly the case looks to have been polished, so it has lost some of the sharpness of the lines especially the angles each side of the dial. As far as I know the date and date wheels should be white with black print with this black dial version (and black with white print with the white dial). The main hands don’t look correct to me, they look to be from a 67-9011, and the second hand should be white rather than yellow. The case back is correct and looks to be in nice condition, and the bracelet is of the correct type.

      Stephen

  31. Gyula Kozma says:

    Hi Stephen, thanks for your reply. I was sure a pair of experienced eyes can see much more than mine. 🙂 I guess I’ll have to keep looking.
    Thanks again, and I’m sure I’ll follow your blog, it’s really good!
    Best regards,
    Gyula

  32. Hi stephen good day!

    We have a watch citezen from grand father. This is original ? & how old this watch?

    CITIZEN WATCH CO.
    4-901193k
    80501194
    GN-4-S
    67-9020
    JAPAN
    GPB

  33. Hi stephen,

    Can i ask how to upload the picture citizen watch in your web site coz to know this is orig. Watch??

    Tnx,
    Vincent

    • sweephand says:

      Hi Vincent, thanks for visiting my blog. Unfortunately visitors aren’t able to upload pictures directly. You can either post a link to somewhere like Photobucket or I can email you and you can send them to me. I have your email address, so please let me know if you want me to do that. The markings on your grandfather’s watch appear to be authentic and original for a gold-plated ‘bullhead’ chronograph, and indicate that it was made in May of 1978. Here is a pic of the 67-9020 model:

      Stephen

      Stephen

      • RITHIN says:

        Hi Stephen,

        My name is Rithin i had the similar citizen bullhead model 4-901193 k . i think it is 1980 model still it is working in good condition but had some scratches in its case. It would be great if i am getting a new case of the watch in silver color.

        Please find below the back case details
        4-901193 K
        01200423
        GN-4-5
        67-9020
        JAPAN G P B

        Thanks

        • sweephand says:

          Hi Rithin, thanks for visiting my blog. I have seen many of the 67-9020 model with cases that have been polished to remove the gold plate. I think that is a shame – is yours badly worn?

          Stephen

  34. Markus says:

    Hi stephen,

    Thank you for an absolutely amazing blog! 🙂

    I wonder if you could e-mail me so I can send you some pictures of a Bullhead I want to buy. I want to know what you have to say about it, if everything is correct .

    Have a nice day !
    Markus

  35. Mike Wilensky says:

    Stephen, if you email me with your address, I will send you a photo of my Citizen Bullhead chronograph watch!

  36. Danny says:

    Hi Stephen, I recently picked up a very cheap ‘Frankenstein’ bullhead, it has a gold case, gold bezel and gold face. I’m guessing it’s creator really liked gold! Part of the reason it was cheap is that the bezel is not currently attached, I was wondering if you knew what the best way to reattach it was?

    Thanks,
    Danny

  37. Paul says:

    hey stephen, thx a lot for your informative sites….. just wanna ask ur opinion about the citizen bullhead that i just bought…. can u please send me an email….. i’ll give you the pictures of my citizen watch! thx! 😀

  38. Gerard says:

    Hi Stephen,

    Thank you for the very informative articles you’ve shared. They actually encouraged me to look at vintage citizen chronos. I would like to kindly ask for your expert opinion on a citizen 67-9356 i am trying to buy. But im hoping to send the pics to your email. Thank you in advance sir.

  39. Neil. says:

    Hi Stephen,

    I recently had by 8110a serviced but my watchmaker said the fly-back function was a bit worn and he couldn’t fix it. I also noticed the day doesn’t change smoothly. Do you know of a watchmaker in the UK who may have the replacement parts to fix this my watch?

  40. Reaper says:

    hello there Stephen … congrats for this site is very helpfull … please i would like your expert opinion on this bullhead right here (silver dial) …. thanks in advance …

    http://lazy-hound-london.myshopify.com/collections/frontpage/products/citizen-bullhead-original-spec-1970s?variant=750712331

    • sweephand says:

      Hi and thanks for visiting my blog and for your kind comment. This one (silver dial) looks to have an after-market dial – the printing looks rather coarse and seems to have ‘bled’ (e.g. the dial code). The chrono hands have either been re-painted and/or are after-market (centre holes are painted over). Case back is correct, black bezel has been painted – too glossy compared to the original finish. Bracelet is not original to this model.

      Hope this helps, Stephen

  41. Francesco says:

    Hi Stephen, tour site is extremely helpfull, expecially for new ones to vintage watches. Using your advises I’ve spot ed this one on ebay http://www.ebay.it/itm/171793526798?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1438.l2649, althougt the cae seems to have been polished, I wanted to know your opinion on that! That is in advance! Francesco

    • sweephand says:

      Hi Francesco, thanks for visiting my blog, and for your kind comments. You are right that the case has been polished – the original finish on these was finely brushed giving a satin appearance. I would think the bezel has been re-painted since they do get chipped and worn over the years and the chronograph hands have also been re-painted – you can see the centre holes are painted over, which is a shame in my opinion since more careful painting can leave them looking much better and how they were when the watch was first put together. It looks to me to have the original dial, and it’s nice to see black day and date wheels. The case back is correct and not gouged by removal tools, with a 1981 production date. Other than the corrosion on the rotor the movement looks ok to me. I would think the crystal has been replaced, it looks a little thicker to me than the original, but it looks like the white crystal gasket is there.

      Hope this helps,
      Stephen

      • Francesco says:

        Thanks for you replay. Finding one in god and original conditions seems to be not a easy task…. I’ll keep looking for a good example… Must have one!! If anybody has other suorces (other than ebay) to suggest I’ll apreciate. Thanks again!

  42. art van deco says:

    hello steven
    fascinating site, thank you for sharing your researches.
    i have a few challenge timers (was not aware of the correct name until now). the case back of one differs from the table you give at the start of this article. it has 5 lines stamped. 1) GPB 2)8110 3)4-901029-K 4)413C1080 5)67-9020
    it is line 3 that has me puzzled. this is not mentioned by your table. i would appreciate any help.

    • sweephand says:

      Hi, and thank you for visiting my blog, and for your kind comments. Your question has been very helpful – I hadn’t realised that there are two case numbers for the 67-9020 gold plated model. The one I was familiar with and put in my article (4-901193) is listed in a casing parts manual I have, but I have checked the number on yours (4-901029) and that is also a correct number. So, as with one or two other Challenge Timers, two case numbers were used – I don’t know why, maybe the were made at different factories. I can now add your number to the chronograph page on my blog. Thank you for asking about this 🙂

      Stephen

  43. Michael says:

    Hi Stephen,
    Thanks for this very helpful article!

    I bought a Citizen 8110 Bullhead in a pretty good shape. But unfortunately do not have the case screws and casing clamps, which fix the movement in the housing. The movement just sits loosely in the housing. Where I can buy those fixing parts for this movement? I only found some numbers on an old spare parts list.
    Case Screw 925-48
    Casing Clamp 082

    Thanks in advance for your help!

    Regards.
    Michael

    • sweephand says:

      Hi Michael – thanks for visiting my blog and good to see that you have found it useful. I don’t know if any suppliers would have these parts now, but a watchmaker might be able to find screws and clamps that would do the job, but would not be original of course. However, I do have a couple of correct screws and clamps:

      Let me know if you are interested in these, and if so I’ll email you (I see the mail addresses of people who comment so no need to post it here),

      Stephen

      • Michael says:

        Hi Stephan

        Thanks for your quick response and offer. The problem was a loose movement. I thought the clamp were missing. But my watchmaker told me that I did not need the clamp. The movement is fixed with a plastic ring. This is broken. But I’ve already got a new one.
        Thank you again.
        Michael

  44. XL says:

    Hi Stephen,

    Thanks for the very helpful article. I perhaps should have done my research before placing my bid, but could you help comment on the (degree of) authenticity of this: http://www.ebay.com/ulk/itm/311523599952

    I’m feeling insecure about the deal right now and would greatly appreciate your advice!

    • sweephand says:

      Hi, thanks for visiting my blog. I’ve had a look at the watch, and what you have is a re-worked Challenge Timer (‘aka bullhead’). The dial and hands are original , but are somewhat worn, especially the tachymeter scale around the edge of the dial. The black bezel looks to have been painted, which is unlikely to be very durable. The original gold dialled models had either black coated or gold plated cases – this one has the case code BLG so it should have a black case with a gold plated bezel. So the case itself has either had the black finish polished off, or is a case from a different model. It’s not an ‘authentic’ model, and a seller should really explain what has been done to create it – that is rarely done though, and I’ve seen a lot of gold or black coated cases re-worked this way since they can be badly worn.

      Stephen

      • XL says:

        Thanks for this Stephen. The seller was nice enough to cancel the transaction without penalising me. I left him good feedback, but will nonetheless be careful of similar listings in the future. Cheers

        • sweephand says:

          You’re welcome 🙂 I’m pleased that the seller was honourable and didn’t make it difficult for you to cancel. Please feel free to ask about any of the vintage Citizens, I’m happy to answer questions as best I can. If you have a query before you bid on an auction, I can send a private email if you prefer.

          Stephen

  45. Paul says:

    I’ve been reading your blog for a few weeks, and I find it to be a fascinating look into vintage Citizen watches. Thank you for your hard work that you have accomplished over the years.
    It’s always nice to see someone with as much passion and dedication as yourself, as it always creates new collectors and brings to light a brand that isn’t that well known for their mechanical timepieces. Actually now it is :).
    When I say known I mean to the general public, as the focus is always towards swiss, or seiko watches.
    I am trying to find a ‘bullhead’, for me the red hands, panda dial 9011, looks the best. Looks ussually are subjective and can change with time.
    I’ve found this model on ebay: http://www.ebay.com/itm/121923503587
    From the experience gathered from your guide, this watch appears to have a new dial. Other than that the lugs seem reduced and have an asymmetrical shape and the case back seems overly polished. On the other hand the movement seems very clean.
    Considering this, do you believe this model is worth the 300+$ price? Did I miss something?
    Also I see some models have a 901177K and others have a 901177Y case number on the back. Is there a difference between the K or Y letters? Sorry for the multiple questions:)
    Thanks in advance and good luck with your work on the next articles.

    • sweephand says:

      Hi Paul, thanks for visiting my blog and for your kind comments. I am very familiar with thee seller of the bullhead – typically his watches are re-furbished models bought fairly cheaply from, for example, the Philippines. You have to be careful to check that things like case backs are correct for the model as well as what you have checked out already – I agree it has a new dial, and hands set by the looks of it. The case has been re-finished but doesn’t look to have had too much metal removed. Looks to me that the bezel has been re-=painted so durability may be an issue. I don’t know the quality of the servicing it’s had, or whether it was done by the seller or by the previous owner. Worth checking I would think.

      As to price, with original bullheads being rather hard to find these days, especially in good condition, I can understand the attraction of a refurbished one but the price, imho, should reflect that. This seller’s prices are more like what you’d pay for an original and his descriptions are somewhat cleverly worded, but infer originality and the use of after-market parts is not described, nor is what degree and type of refurbishment has been undertaken.

      Good question about ‘K’ and ‘Y’! I have been trying to solve this for a while, but without much success. I wonder whether they are codes for the factory where the watch/case was made. The letters are not used in parts catalogues so they are not relevant for that. I will keep trying to find the solution but don’t have an answer just yet!

      Stephen

      • Paul says:

        Hi Stephen, thanks for the fast and very informative reply.

        I also thought that the letters were used to nominate the factory or country, like the ‘K’ and ‘J’ letters on the SKX models from Seiko.
        My quest continues to find a original watch, even if it’s a little beaten up which is to be expected after all these years. If process of finding and acquiring one was simple, half the fun would be gone 🙂

        Many thanks, Paul

  46. boss says:

    I have come across this blog. And it is very informative about vintage Citizen watches. I have recently bought a Citizen Bullhead Octagon watch. But when I stop and reset my stop watch, the hour sub-dial (at 9 o’clock) still counting hours, if I push the reset button, the hand comes at 12 but starts again. Another thing is that my sub-dial hands are different than the pictures so far I have come across. I would like your comments on these questions. Thank you in advance.
    Regards, boss

    • sweephand says:

      Hi boss, thanks for visiting my blog, and I’m glad you have found it helpful. If your sub-dial hands are a different shape than the ones shown on my blog, then they are replacements. Only one style of hands was used, and they are either white if you have the black dial, or black if you have the white dial. I am not a watchmaker so I can’t give much technical advice. I guess you already know that the movement in these has a ‘flyback’ function, so it you press the right button as you look at the watch from the front when the chrono is running, it will return to zero but restart immediately. If you stop the chrono using the left button, then you can zero the chrono with the right and it should remain stopped. If the chrono, or the hour sub-dial keeps running when it should be stopped, then there is obviously a problem. It may be something that a full service will sort out, but a watchmaker would also identify whether any parts are needed. A full service and repair if necessary is quite expensive, but it you want to get the watch to run correctly then it is recommended.
      Stephen

  47. Dominic says:

    Hi, do you have an email that I can send pictures of some bullheads I found that I want to buy, but need to confirm if the dials are original and if they are franken watches.
    Thanks and I really appreciate this guide.

  48. Marcel Dorembus says:

    Thanks for the wonderful resource, I can feel your passion for these cool old watches and after reading your blog my interest has widened from the bullhead (or should I say Challenge) to some of the other vintage automatic Citizen chronos. I can see you’re often asked for advice re. internet purchases, I wonder if I could add my voice to the chorus. After reading how to date these, i’ve found one that was made just a month before me… would you send me an email so I can share the link with you? I would really appreciate your advice.

  49. Payod Panda says:

    Hi, your website has been extremely helpful in narrowing down my search online for one of these beauties. I have actually come across an eBay listing by user “pig26458”, that seems like the real deal (9356). HOWEVER, (s)he does not post a clear photo of the caseback, but lists exactly the correct things that should be on there. He also says “[ For more information about this watch you are kindly invited to visit the following blog: sweep-hand.org Sweephand’s Vintage Citizen Watch Blog/Automatic Chronographs ] “, which almost makes me feel like he’s faking it and picked up every detail from your amazing resource and posted it in the description, avoiding to post a photo of it.

    Would you be willing to look at this listing and advise me? Thanks!

  50. Roger Gaspar says:

    Hi Stephen,
    I am so glad to have stumbled to your website and blog; it’s such a great source of information and fascinating to read. You’re very kind to be sharing your knowledge to the rest of the world!
    You see, I’m a Seiko chronograph (6138s, 6139s) enthusiast and has my own little collection of these amazing 70s watches. Then I got interested in a particular Orient model (King Diver) from the 60s and, I guess to round up my fascination with Japanese vintage watches, now looking into Citizens. I have yet to decide which specific model I’d like to focus into; your website makes it difficult to do so! Of course, I’d be curious with your recommendations; I do like the slightly larger cases but history/significance is also important. Cheers and all the best!
    RG

    • sweephand says:

      Hi Roger, thanks for visiting my blog – you ask a big question! 🙂 People have different tastes, so I’m always a bit reluctant to make recommendations. For example, many collectors love classic divers with external bezels, but I’m not a huge fan, whilst price might also come into play – divers for instance have gone up hugely in value lately. Citizen’s chronographs are interesting and unlike some of Seiko’s offerings, are all high beat and have ‘fly-back’ all in a compact design. Some of the older watches that are significant since they were the first Japanese water resistant or shock proof models, are relatively small. The Jets are worth looking at in my opinion if you want something with an interesting movement, and the ‘Super’ versions of any of Citizen’s models are relatively rare and of very good quality. Citizen made Japan’s first electric watch, still with a hairspring, so that it is interesting, and the subsequent X8/Cosmotrons are of good quality and the later ones give high beat performance. If you want good quality mechanical with high beat movements, the Leopards are worth a look. Finally, Citizen’s chronometers are worth looking at – their first hand winder is very expensive, but the Chrono Masters are very nice, both manual and automatic. Hope this helps a bit, but there is still a wide range in this summary! I should add that larger cases can be found in the Custom ranges – for example some of the Seven Stars, Crystal Sevens and V2’s. Please get back to me if you have more questions or want more specific examples from any of Citizen’s lines. Stephen

  51. PeterB says:

    Hi Stephen, Great wealth of knowledge you have on your site. I am looking at the Bullhead below on Ebay and some of the things don’t seem to add up, Case back marked as if it should have a gold case a black dial and the hour marks on the dial look wrong. The seller does state it has been refurbished?

    http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/VINTAGE-CITIZEN-CHRONOGRAPH-BULLHEAD-AUTOMATIC-23-JEWELS-/282055914047?hash=item41abd7b23f:g:jBcAAOSwhOBXT~Fd

    • sweephand says:

      Hi Peter, thanks for visiting my blog and for your kind comments. You’re right to raise some issues. This is a bit more than a refurb – if it’s the original case then it has had the black coating removed and the gold bezel has been de-plated and painted black. The case shape doesn’t look right, so it appears to have had quite a bit of metal removed when the original finish was polished off. The dial is after-market, as are the hands too by the look of them.
      Stephen

  52. Scott Doering says:

    Hi Stephen,

    First wanted to thank you for the time and effort you have put into the website. A lot of info that has helped so many other Citizen/watch lovers. I first got into eBay probably 5 years ago, and have probably purchased 80 or so watches over that time. But, one watch that really grabbed my attention at the beginning was the Bullhead, or the Citizen Challenge Timer. Before I really knew anything about anything, I purchased a Citizen Challenge Timer because I had to have one, but wasn’t working, so I took it to a local watch repair shop, who said it couldn’t be repaired. So I bought another one, which seems to work. I guess my questions are, how do I know if any of my items are original (I have 3 dials, 2 movements, 2 cases, and 2 case backs), and second, where could I possibly send them to be looked at and restored in the US (Brian). I now have 5 Bullheads (Citizen, Lum-Tec, LIP, Adidas, and Quicksilver), but am always searching for more…

    Thank you in advance,

    Scott

    • sweephand says:

      Hi Scott, thanks for visiting my blog and for your kind comments. If you can upload pics somewhere I can have a look at your Challenge Timer parts. I’m afraid you can’t post images directly here. Or if you prefer I can email you and you can send pics to me. I can let you have Brian’s contact details – do you want to check the originality of your parts first? Stephen

  53. Scott Doering says:

    Stephen,

    I can definitely email you some pictures. I have a yellow dial which I am sure is aftermarket, but I do have two silver dials that I cannot detect. I purchased all of the watches/parts before they became really sought after on eBay, so I am hoping that something may be original. If not, I still really enjoy the Bullhead design.

    Thank you

  54. JDAIII says:

    Stephen,

    I’m a very amateur watchmaker. Obsessed with nice watches, but cannot afford the ones I like so I’ve taken it upon myself to learn to fix them myself. I have books modern to antique that I am reading and I am practicing with a course from timezone. My friend fell in love with the Citizen bullhead design and I saw a few on ebay for cheap, so I picked up two for about $40. From what I can see, the two are in the same date range, so parts SHOULD be interchangeable and it looks like there would be one good watch between the two. I have a few questions about servicing these watches. Can you email me so that I can ask some questions about servicing? Things like the best way to remove the bezel and any tips that may be useful for my first foray into the world of citizen automatic chronographs servicing?

    • sweephand says:

      Thanks for visiting my blog – there should no problem about interchangeability of parts if they are both 8110 chronographs since only one version was made (along with the 8100 single register one of course). I’ll send you an email 🙂
      Stephen

  55. Michael says:

    I’ve searched high and low and nothing on my gold plated Citizen bullhead. The case back doesn’t appear to have a serial number and leads me to think maybe the case
    Back doesn’t go with the watch. The case back is as follows:
    Citizen
    Watch Co.
    4-901029K
    67-9020
    GN-4-5 501
    Japan
    GPB

    The case is gold plated with a gold dial and black subdials. The black bezel is in good shape. Any idea on age?

    • sweephand says:

      Hi Michael, thanks for visiting my blog. From your description, the case back looks correct for the watch – ‘GPB’ indicates a gold plated case with black bezel, and the model and case numbers are also correct. I don’t why it has no serial number – very unusual. I don’t know the exact production dates for these, but the 8110A movement was first produced in 1972, and your model is listed in my 1977 case parts catalogue, so it is from the mid-1970s.
      Stephen

  56. Magnus says:

    I just bought a model with the model # 67-9020 and the case # 4-901193, but it has a black dail and black bezel, the case is in stainless steel. Is it possible that it is a fake?

  57. Gabz Marigza says:

    hi stephen,

    just want your opinion about a 67-9356 I bought recently. how do I send you the photos?

    Thanks,
    Gabz

  58. Gabz Marigza says:

    hi stephen,

    I would just want to ask for your evaluation regarding a 67-9356 I recently bought.

    thnks,
    gabz

    • sweephand says:

      Hi Gabz, I’m afraid visitors can’t post pics here, but you can post a link if you have uploaded them somewhere. Or I can email you and you can send them to me – please let me know if you want me to do that. Stephen

  59. Gabz Marigza says:

    Hi Stephen,

    I think it’s better if you could email me and i’ll send the photos via email.

    Thanks,
    Gabz

    • sweephand says:

      Ok Gabz, email on the way 🙂

      • Gabz Marigza says:

        got it. thank you, stephen.

        got another question. did the 67-9038 and 67-9119 also come with stainless steel hour & minute hands?

        • sweephand says:

          Hi Gabz, the white version of the 67-9038 was the only one with steel hands:

          The 67-9119 only came with orange hands:

          I’ll get an email to you late about your767-9356, Stephen

          • Gabz Marigza says:

            Hi Stephen,

            Thanks again for you reply. I have a blue dial 67-9038 with steel hour and minute hands which I suppose came from a white dial version. And I’m about to get a 67-9119 with steel hour and minute hands also. Oh well, I guess I will have to charge this to experience again.

            Got your email re my 67-9356 and have replied to you.

            Thank you so much Stephen.

            Kind regards,
            Gabz

  60. J says:

    Hi Stephen, thank you for sharing all this valuable info. I had a specific question. I am waiting to receive the following model from a seller. 67-9011 4-901177 Black racing dial Base Metal, Black (SSB). I know it is automatic, but is one able to manually wind and get a charge on this model with the crown in its default position? I.e if I am not moving as much or watch is stored?

    • sweephand says:

      Hi J, thanks for visiting my blog and for your kind comment. Yes your watch can be wound by hand as well as being an auto winder, with the crown in the usual running position. The majority of Citizen’s vintage automatic watches can be wound by hand, which is a useful feature when you need it.
      Stephen

  61. Brian says:

    Hi Stephen,

    Firstly, this is a properly good blog posting. Comprehensive details for this watch. Thanks for sharing your wealth of knowledge.

    Secondly, I’m looking to buy my first Challenge Timer Octogon, and have noticed a number of instances where case back serial numbers don’t seem to be as mentioned in this blog post. Notably, the colour code designation is missing (i.e. SSB). Pic links below.

    I’ve also included a picture of the movement to hopefully get some comments from you regarding authenticity.



    Kind Regards
    Brian

    • Brian says:

      Sorry, I should clarify that I was after your comments on this type of case back which seems to be slightly different in number arrangement than what you have specified. Could this be a fake or a Frankenstein?

      • sweephand says:

        Hi Brian, thanks for visiting my blog and for your kind comments. The watch looks ok to me – the movement shot doesn’t show the 8110, 23 jewels stamp so it might be worth asking the seller for that. The case back is fine – it is marked ‘all stainless steel’ as it should be. Only the more common ‘bullhead’ (67-9011) would have SSB since it has a black bezel. The 67-9356 has a polished steel bezel. For comparison have a look at my example here: https://sweep-hand.org/2015/01/27/this-weeks-featured-watch-67-67-9356-chronograph/
        The only other comment is that it doesn’t have the original bracelet for this model, but it does have the one from the 67-9119.
        Stephen

        • Brian says:

          Thanks Stephen for your response to this. I have since purchased that watch pictured based on your recommendations so a big thank you to you for the advice. My first vintage chrono!!!!!

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