This Week’s Featured Watch #49 – The X8 (Cosmotron) Chronometer

Posted on April 19, 2013 by sweephand

In 1970 Citizen produced two chronometer grade models in their electro-mechanical X8 Cosmotron range. One of these is the very rare titanium cased version, of which only 2000 were produced – it was the first watch globally to be made from titanium – I haven’t got one of those! See here for some images: https://sweep-hand.org/2011/05/25/japanese-auctions/

The other model is a little less scarce, and I managed to get hold of one of these some time ago:

The official certification was to the Japan Chronometer Association  standard  (rather than the Swiss COSC) but this is likely to have been no lower than the Swiss standard and may have been higher. The dial is marked accordingly:

The case is unique to this model, and is certainly unusual:

The case back is generally typical, showing production in August 1970, but it lacks ‘parawater’:

The 0820 movement was first produced in 1970, and has 19 jewels – it runs at 21,600 beats per hour, faster than the first of the electronic movements but slower than its successor which was upped to 36,000 bph. As with all chronometer grade models the movement is uniquely numbered (the 1.55v battery is missing in this pic):

This model retailed at JPY36,000 in 1970, more than the X8 Chrono Master, reflecting the  grade this watch achieved. It was, however a short-lived piece, soon replaced by the next  Cosmotron movement (the 7800 series) – whilst the whole of this hybrid technology was rendered obsolete when the quartz revolution began in the mid-1970s.

More info on the Cosmotrons can be found on this page: https://sweep-hand.org/the-x8-cosmotron/

Posted in Vintage Watches | Tagged , , | 6 Comments

Skin Diver & the Diver Page

Posted on April 6, 2013 by sweephand

I’ve now added KK’s images to the Diver Page 🙂

Posted in Vintage Watches | Leave a comment

Citizen’s Vintage 200m Diver – the 21 jewel ‘Skin Diver’

Posted on March 31, 2013 by sweephand

Although I shall be updating the diver page, I wanted to share some photos here first 🙂

‘KK’, a reader of this blog, got in touch with me to say that he is the owner of this rare piece, the 200 meter ‘Skin Diver’ –  this may have been Citizen’s first ‘true’ diver. It’s certainly a good candidate, since it was one of only two divers made with the 1120 movement in the early to mid-1960s, the other being the Jet Autodater 120m model (with 19 jewels) . KK asked if I’d like to use his photos here – needless to say I was extremely pleased to say yes, and I’m enormously grateful that he contacted me. Full credit goes to KK for these images. They are his photos, posted here with his permission – please do not post them anywhere else but feel free to link to this post:

This model uses the 21 jewel 1120 ‘Jet’ movement with its circular toothed rotor. The movement was first made in 1962, but unfortunately Citizen chose not to use serial numbers on these, so no production date can be determined. The case back has the typical scrolling for that period (early 1960s) and the unique model name:

The elegant dauphin type hands are lumed, whilst the second hand is plain, and the relatively narrow bezel has dots all round, and counts down rather than up as is more usual:

I particularly like the hour markers, which are beautifully shaped in a somewhat Art Deco style:

Thank you again to KK, it’s very good of him to allow me to share his photos.

Happy Easter! 🙂

Posted in Vintage Watches | Tagged , , | Leave a comment

Case Backs – New Page on the Way

Posted on March 27, 2013 by sweephand

I’m working on a new page, to be used alongside the Movement Table, which will give examples of typical case backs over the 1960s and 1970s – and what the markings mean.

Watch this space 🙂

Posted in Vintage Watches | Leave a comment

This Week’s Featured Watch #48 – Jet Auto Dater Seven, 25 jewels

Posted on March 26, 2013 by sweephand

Citizen’s second generation Jet movements, the 41xx series, were launched in 1964 and were used in the ‘Seven’ auto dater models. They were made with 19, 25 or 35 jewels and a ‘Monthly’ model was part of the line-up, but they were soon superseded by the newer models using swinging weight movements. NB: There is also a ‘7’ in the ‘SM’ line-up, but this used the 23 jewel 4600 movement, one of the first of the swinging (also known as oscillating) weight rotors – so it doesn’t have a Jet rotor.

This week’s example is one of the 25 jewel variants which uses the 4101 movement (see the Jet Automatic page for more detail on the movements used – https://sweep-hand.org/the-jet-automatic/). The dial has the applied ‘7’ logo, not found on the earlier 03/11xx models:

Typically marked ‘Parawater 40m’ the Sevens all feature separate date and day windows, and I believe they all have a date quick set mechanism, known as Easy Change (EC). This is activated by repeatedly pulling the crown out to its last step and then pushing it back in. The day is set by winding back and forth past midnight then back to around the 8 o’clock marker.

The font used is distinctive, whilst the stylised Jet motif has been dropped:

This model has a one-piece case, with typical markings on the back, showing production in November 1965. The case number is the older type (ADSS81302Y) and the case back sticker is still in place:

The same font and ‘7’ logo are used on the back:

For more information on the Monthly model see this post, where it is shown after its successor model: https://sweep-hand.org/2011/05/20/this-weeks-featured-watch-4-the-monthly/

Posted in Vintage Watches | Tagged , , | 5 Comments

HMT & Citizen – More Information

Posted on March 17, 2013 by sweephand

Got some good info from ‘Hari317’ on the WUS forum. Here’s what he told me:

‘Little information is available about their early models so we dont know if your watch predates the name watches or not. Citizen is translated into Hindi as “Janata” and the Janata is still their bread-butter model. ‘

And this is particularly useful:

‘The case back consists of three segments: factory code, case code and case producer code. I don’t have sufficient documents with me to exactly decipher the codes. however, the first field on your case back is 01 which indicates WF-1 at Bangalore.’

So I can forget trying to date mine from the number on the case back:

Hari317 also provide this link to the HMT website, which gives info on the first factories in India etc.:

History | HMT Watches

Thanks  again to Hari317 for his help 🙂  Finally, here’s a closer pic of mine:

 

Posted in Vintage Watches | 2 Comments

HMT & Citizen

Posted on March 15, 2013 by sweephand

In 1960 Citizen made an agreement with the Indian government, and after training and setting up operations, a year or so later the Hindustan Machine Tools Ltd began production. Using the 02 ‘Homer’ movement this enterprise has survived over the decades, and they are still sold today! I thank Swaminathan Panchapagesan for his comment, which helped me understand this remarkable history. He posted a link to the WUS forum where many models can be seen: http://forums.watchuseek.com/f71/my-hmt-watches-380228-76.html

I had to get an example for my collection – I believe the ones marked ‘Citizen’ are the older ones, but I’m really not sure how old this one is – maybe from 1970:

 

The 17j movement is very familiar, with plainer finishing and now signed ‘HMT’ of course:

Hopefully Swaminathan will see this and come back with more info 🙂

Posted in Vintage Watches | Tagged , , | 11 Comments

Citizen – Why This Name?

Posted on March 12, 2013 by sweephand

The ‘Citizen’ Watch Company got its name in 1924 – prior to that the Shokosha Watch Research Institute, formed in 1918, had developed a pocket watch. In 1924 the Mayor of Tokyo, Mr Shimpei Goto named that pocket watch the ‘Citizen’, based on his hope that the watch would become available to ordinary people not only in Japan, but all over the world. Prior to that a watch was something of a luxury item.

By 1931 Citizen produced its first wristwatch, and the rest, as they say, is history.

Posted in Vintage Watches | Tagged , | 12 Comments

Citizen Hello Cards

Posted on March 3, 2013 by sweephand

From 1969, this pack of cards provides English translation and pronunciation of Japanese phrases. Each card is unique, whilst each suit has a different focus – hearts on general interaction, clubs are about getting around, diamonds help with shopping, and spades with hotels and restaurants:

The cartoon on the side of the box incorporates the older ‘C’ style logo, which fits with the 1960s:

All the cards have the same back:

Here’s an example, one of only a couple that mention Citizen watches directly:

The pack also includes a world time card:

And a currency converter, which gives the publication year of 1969 (bottom right):

I’d not seen these before, so had to get them, and at just over $5 they didn’t break the bank 🙂

Posted in Vintage Watches | 4 Comments

This Week’s Featured Watch #47 – the 67-9151 Chronograph

Posted on February 22, 2013 by sweephand

Time for a more complicated watch to be featured, and this one is one of the 8110A mechanical chronographs from the 1970s. The Challenge Timers, aka the ‘bullhead’ are the models most often seen for sale, many with after market dials and re-finished cases (see the buying guide: https://sweep-hand.org/want-an-original-citizen-bullhead-a-quick-buying-guide/). There are a number of other models though which are not so often seen, and the all stainless steel 67-9151 is one of those:

This model has an interesting case shape as well as hexagonal sub-registers, a dial design shared with one other model, the 67-9178 (see all of the models on the chronograph page:  https://sweep-hand.org/citizens-vintage-chronographs/)

The shaded green dial and contrasting yellow and orange sub-register borders, combined with the other design features are very 1970s. I have seen some very faded dials on these, and some which appear to have only yellow borders and more even colouring on the dial. Although they have the same dial code I am not sure whether they were a different original design, or have suffered a degree of fading – although two case numbers are seen on these so there may have been two versions (4-901118 and 4-901142).

My example was made in January 1975, and looks to be on an original solid link bracelet:

The clasp is signed:

Detail of the sides and signed crown:

The 8110A has a high beat movement, with hour and minute sub-registers, and ‘flyback’ capability in a compact design, features that represent a very good quality watch.

Posted in Vintage Watches | Tagged , , , | 10 Comments