This weekend’s hand winders feature the Ace – launched in 1961 it uses a derivation of the 9200 movement first seen in the Deluxe in 1958. The Ace movements are the 9210, 9230, 9231 and 9232 and run at 18,000 bph. Unlike the Deluxe, they are not marked ‘3 Adj.’ so I assume they are not quite at the same grade. Made with either 21 or 23 jewels, they were in production for about 5 years. Today’s example is from October 1962, and is a typical design of that era, with narrow dauphin hands and a fluted bezel, all in stainless steel. The case/model number the older style A1407051, and the lugs are drilled right through. It still runs very well:
This is the second example of the 67-9054 model, this time with the alternative blue dial. As illustrated by yesterday’s green dialled version, the bezel on these is very vulnerable, so I was pleased to acquire today’s example with an intact one. It’s not a watch I wear for fear of damaging the bezel which is a great shame of course, but I’d like to keep this one in its current condition!
The combination of the mid-blue dial with the blue highlights on the tachymeter bezel and sub-dials is very pleasing to the eye, and the orange second hand strikes a great contrast. The original solid link bracelet is a familiar design, and can be found on a number of other 8110A models. I suspect the 67-9054 had a short production run since both of mine are from 1974 (this one is June of that year) and they are not listed in my 1977 original Citizen casing parts catalogue:
The weekend approaches, so a couple of hand winding models will be selected, then I think it will be back to 8110A’s for a third Chronograph Week 🙂
I’m ending the second chronograph week with two side buttoned models, in fact two variants of one model – the 67-9054. This ‘TV’ style watch is a hefty piece of stainless steel, and along with a solid link bracelet it feels very solid. It uses the 8110A movement of course – high-beat, hand-windable, fly-backable; it has it all. However, there’s a big ‘but’ to the design, and that is the external tachymeter bezel, which has been left unprotected from the knocks and scrapes of everyday life. This first example, the green dial variant, is a good example of this issue, even though it is far from the worst you’ll ever see! The attractive black bezel with cyan printed tachymeter scale actually sits slightly proud of the case, so it is very vulnerable. Otherwise, the case is very decent, and the dial nigh on perfect. It’s a shaded green base with black sub-dials highlighted with cyan and grey. The baton hour markers and main hands are lumed whilst the sub-register hands are white – finally the orange second hand creates a bright contrast as it sweeps smoothly round the dial. This one is from July 1974:
Finishing the ‘bullhead’ style of 8110A chronographs today, with the fully stainless steel 67-9356. This model is instantly recognisable by its hexagonal case. With either silver/white or black dials, mine is the latter. Although not in perfect condition it is on its original sold link bracelet and runs very well indeed – it was serviced by Brian Leiser (aka 31 Jewels) so it has been in the right hands 🙂
Since this one is all stainless, it is a much more hefty piece than its alloy cased siblings. The lighting in my pic looks like it has a black bezel and black applied Citizen logo – it hasn’t of course!:
Staying with the ‘bullhead’ design today, and this is a nice alternative to the more usual 67-9011 that I featured on May 29th. This has a black dial and printed rather than applied Citizen logo. The white lumed main hands and hour markers, a multi-coloured minutes register and orange chronograph hands give it a sharp and very clear appearance, whilst the black day and date wheels blend in nicely. The nickel alloy case and black bezel are the same as the more common version. The movement is the 8110A of course, with hand winding, quick-set day and date and fly-back functionality.
My example is from August 1976 – interestingly the dial number (901051) isn’t in Citizen’s casing parts catalogue from 1977, so maybe this version had only a short production run. This would explain the relatively low number seen for sale these days:
After my second hand wind weekend, it’s back to chronographs this week, with today’s watch a bullhead type – this time it’s one of two models that use a gold tone dial, the 67-9143. This variant features a dark brown (rather than black) coated case and gold bezel. The other model is the 67-9020 which has a gold plated case and black bezel.
The 67-9143 has two case numbers, this dark brown one is 4-901134, whilst the other is 4-901088 – that may relate to a black finish to the case. My photo today clearly shows the white crystal gasket, something to look out for when you see either an 8100 or 8110 chronograph. The combination of black with the gold dial, main and sub-register hands is an effective and appealing design. My example is a late one, from July 1981:
Well, it had to be this one, after yesterday’s Deluxe 🙂 The Super Deluxe is the high grade version of the range – the 9200 calibre came with either 23 or 25 jewels and as with the Deluxe they first appeared in 1958. The ‘Super’ version had more adjustments before leaving the factory – the standard version had 3 so this one probably had 5, and the movement is marked ‘specially adjusted’. The movement is nicely finished, and the case is 14K gold-filled to a thickness of 80 microns. My example is a 25 jewel model from February 1962, and is one of my favourites in the collection. No special features, it just tells the time, but it is a classy, high quality piece that runs very, very well. Again, I would recommend a Super Deluxe for any collection – even if you are not a fan of gold tone, I think you will be impressed by the look of this one since it is a step above the usual standard:
After a chronograph week, I’m having a hand wind weekend again. And this time it’s a Deluxe from August 1961. The Deluxe was introduced in 1958, using the 2B/9200 movement with 19, 21 and 23 jewels. It proved to be Citizen’s first really successful watch, with sales exceeding a value of over ¥100million. There were many dial designs, along with steel and gold/gold-plated cases, combined with a high quality movement that can run very accurately at a leisurely 18,000 beats per hour. It is also a fairly slim movement, with no date or day complications, so it is a very stylish dress watch. I would recommend getting hold of a good example of these, you can feel the quality of them somehow – smooth winding and hand setting tells you that it is a superior thing.
I think this is the 61st of the ‘lockdown’ Today’s Watch series – and as it’s the end of Chronograph Week, it’s one more of the 8110A range. The 67-9011 is Citizen’s best known vintage chronograph, clearly it was produced in the largest quantities. And although the case code is SSB (stainless steel case with black bezel) the case is in fact made from nickel alloy. They started life with a smooth satin finish, which naturally gets a little polished over the years – it you see a mirror finish on one of these, you know it has been polished to that state and is not in an original condition. There are two dial variants, mine is the most common, whilst the other has blue highlights on the minute sub-dial and a different tachymeter ring – this can be seen in yesterday’s post.
Over the past 2 months or so I’ve covered my 8100A chronograph collection, so time now to move on to an 8110A model. This one has no model number, so (as I suggested yesterday) it’s likely that it was originally made for the Japanese Domestic Market only. The case design is the same as the much better known model 67-9011 – the ‘bullhead’ – with its apparent stainless steel case (actually a nickel alloy), but this one has a black coated light alloy case and polished steel bezel. And it sports a very different colour palette on the dial – the main colour is green, with a black minute/second track and black sub-dials with multi-colour highlights. It’s finished off with orange centred hands, orange chronograph hands, orange highlighted hour markers and black date and day wheels. Despite the various colours it presents as a harmonious design in my opinion. The 8110A hand winds, has quick-set day and date (the stop/reset chronograph button moves the day forward on all 8110 and 8100 movements) and of course if has ‘fly-back’ capability. Mine is from December 1973:
Here’s this model in a 1974 Japanese catalogue – as you can see there is no model number in the form of 67-xxxx, but there is a different type of reference number – for this one it is 1552-21. It’s also interesting to see the original strap used on this model, alongside the more familiar bracelet on the 67-9011 seen here: