This Week’s Featured Watch #39 – Crystal Seven Custom 33 Jewels

Not too long after the introduction of the Crystal Seven, Citizen added a line of Custom models. Using what were then more modern designs compared to the more traditional Crystal Sevens, the Customs (as with the Dandy Seven) trailed the way for the early 1970s designs with greater use of colour and bolder design of the case and detail, such as hour markers.

Using the 5200 movements with various jewel counts, the cases were typically of the ‘cushion’ type. This example boasts 33 jewels, and is on its original bracelet:

The case back shows production in August 1969:

The clasp is signed with the older ‘C’ type mark:

A closer shot of the dial:

Finally, here’s a scan from Citizen’s marketing material from 1969, showing three Crystal Seven Customs:

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Chronograph Article – Another Little Update

After getting hold of a blue dialled 67-9054 I have been able to add the dial code and a different image to the Chronograph Article. I was pleased to find this one, since it is in very good condition, and the tachymeter bezel is excellent  – something rare on these since the bezel is very vulnerable to wear and knocks:


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Chronograph Article Update

Just done a quick update to the Chronograph Article, after finding a new variant of the 8110a ‘Walter Wolf’ titanium cased special edition. Previously I’d only seen black dialled versions, then up popped one with a pale gold dial, with a honeycomb texture on it. I’ve only included one image in the article, to allow quick reference for identification as with all the other models, so here are some more photos, all with due credit to the seller on Yahoo Japan:

I can’t quite make out the dial code unfortunately, so that will remain a gap in the data for now. Here is the unique titanium case, and titanium bracelet by the looks of it – this example is from 1984, when that material was still fairly new to the watch world:

Finally some more images – the bracelet, case / bezel, buttons, dial and hands are all unique to this model as far as I know:

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Japanese Auction – 1962 Chronometer

I keep an eye on Yahoo Japan not only to buy the odd watch, but also to see what interesting pieces turn up, and what they sell for. Citizen’s first watch to be made to chronometer standards – the 31 jewel hand winding Chronometer from 1962 – appears now and again. Clearly a very desirable piece for collectors, the prices they fetch reflect this, and this weekend saw one go for precisely JPY116,111 – that’s US$1479.17. Apparently in good working order, and keeping time to -10 seconds per day, there is wear to the white gold filled case at the lugs and some dial spotting – here are the seller’s pics, duly credited to him:

Japanese seller’s often don’t include a movement shot, but this one has 🙂  The serial number inside the case back shows production in July 1963:

The case back medallion looks to be in good condition:

At around GB£1000 in my currency this is not likely to be something to feature in my own collection!!

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Work in Progress – Vintage Divers

For information – I’m currently working on a new article, this time on Citizen’s vintage divers. I should be able to get it finished and uploaded around the beginning of August.

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This Week’s Featured Watch #38 – The Dandy Seven Custom

Continuing the 52 (Crystal Seven) movement family, which last time featured the Cutlass, this week is the quirkily named Dandy Seven Custom. I’m not sure where this name came from, maybe it was designed to appeal to younger buyers since the models are characterised by non-traditional case designs and the use of colour on the dials.

As far as I know the Dandy Seven uses only the 5204 movement with 27 jewels, and probably had only a short production run. They are fairly scarce on the Japanese auctions and are hardly ever seen outside Japan.

My example has a grey dial in a nicely sculpted cushion case, with split day and date windows, and orange highlights on the hour markers:

The Dandy Seven models have a unique applied logo, with crossed swords and shield:

The 5204 movement runs at 18000 beats per hour, with hand winding:

The case back on this one is typical – although some are marked ‘Dandy Seven’ – and shows production in July 1969:

The Dandy Seven Custom, first produced in 1968, trailered some of the design trends later seen in the 1970s, and forms an interesting and unusual part of the collection.

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This Week’s Featured Watch #37 – The Cutlass, 27 Jewels

Following the last Featured Watch here’s an example of the 27 jewel Cutlass, again with some interesting features.  First is the slim case, with its brushed finish:

The back on this one is marked ‘Citizen’ this time, rather than ‘Cutlass’ but is the correct one, with case number4-260066. Serial number shows production in July 1969:

Here’s the 5260 movement – these hack and can be hand wound, whilst the movement i.d. is stamped in the usual place:

A further interesting feature is the black hand set which contrast nicely with the pale silver blue dial, with the black also picked up in the design of the hour markers. The applied Cutlass logo is unique to this line – note the main number in the dial code starts ‘260’ as seen in the case number:

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This Week’s Featured Watch #36 – The Cutlass, 33 Jewels

One of the less familiar models in the 52 Crystal Seven / Seven Star movement family, is the Cutlass. First produced in 1968, three years after the Crystal Seven was introduced, the Cutlass has either date and day windows, with 27 or 33 jewels (movement number 5260) or is date only with 33 jewels (5460), or has no day or date with 30 jewels (6420).

The key characteristic of the 5260 Cutlass which differentiates it from the Crystal Seven models is the slightly slimmer movement – Citizen shaved approximately 0.5mm off compared to the standard Crystal Sevens. See the 52 Family Tree for where the Cutlass fits in the group: http://homepage.ntlworld.com/stephen.netherwood/52FamilyTree.v1Secure.pdf

As indicated by the high jewel counts, the Cutlass was an upper medium model, broadly on a par with the Crystal Seven. They have a unique applied logo at the 6 o’clock position. This week’s example has 33 jewels, and features a textured dial with contrasting black roman hour markers and main hands:

Detail of the dial finish and Cutlass logo, note it’s marked ‘AUTODAY DATE’ rather than the more typical ‘Autodater’ seen on the Jets and other automatics such as the SM and the 520/540:

The case back is specially marked for this line, with ‘CUSS 3002 Y’ model number, and the serial number gives a production date of July 1968:

The movement runs at 18,000 beats per hour, and is stamped with its number near the balance wheel. It can be hand wound and, unlike the Crystal Seven movements, it can be hacked:

The case is nicely shaped on the sides and around the signed crown:

The Crystal Sevens are relatively easy to find, whilst the Cutlass is much rarer, and is an interesting dress watch from the late 1960s.

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02 Homer Family Tree Updated

Just uploaded a slightly revised Family Tree for the Homer group. Two additions made, first to the base 020 movement to include export models with ‘Unbreakabe Spring’ & ‘Water Protected’ on the dial – note that it is ‘Spring’ not ‘Mainspring’. See comments from Jay and me on the Hand Winders page: https://sweep-hand.org/the-hand-winders/#comment-578

Second addition is to the 570 Record Master movement – I’d left out the ‘Custom V2’ variant from the box.

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Jet Automatic Page Updated

I’ve added three schematics to the Jet Automatic page. These are exploded views of the movement showing how it is put together: https://sweep-hand.org/the-jet-automatic/

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