Diamond Flake problem…..solved

Some time ago I found that I wasn’t able to set the time on my 1963 Diamond Flake hand winder https://sweep-hand.org/2013/05/15/this-weeks-featured-watch-51-the-diamond-flake/. The stem was loose and wouldn’t relocate in the correct position although the movement could still be wound and ran ok. Although I’m not a watch mechanic it was clear that there was a serious problem with the ‘keyless’ works/setting lever. And unfortunately my local watch repairer wasn’t able to do anything with it since the relevant parts were too corroded. So the only way to source the parts and fix this problem was to find a ‘donor’ watch…..but these are not seen very often, and it’s been a long wait.

Until last week in fact, when I found a rather sorry looking example on eBay – in fact I’d seen it a couple of months earlier but I was outbid. Although a bit concerned that there may be more than cosmetic problems with this example, since it was being re-sold rather quickly, it was described as in working order so I went for it.

Given my (very) limited watch repair skills I decided to do a movement swap rather than any dismantling, especially since the donor movement looked to be in better condition than my problematic example. In particular the stem fitted correctly and ‘locked’ into place as it should. Although the Diamond Flake has a snap on case back and movement retaining screws, the movement doesn’t just come out of the back once these are removed. It’s removed from the front so the crystal has to come off as well, allowing the movement / dial assembly to be taken out of the case from the front.

After carefully removing the hands and dial from the donor, I fitted my dial and hands and re-installed the assembly in the case. And, happily, it’s running fine – winding and setting correctly and keeping very good time too 🙂

Here’s the dial from the donor watch – I was surprised to find a clean and corrosion free movement inside:

On the dial side of the movement, the corrosion/damage can be seen on the old movement (bottom one in this pic), compared to the donor movement:

You’ll see as well that the upper lever on the donor is different from the old one, since it has two arms rather than one. I think it should have just the one!:

But it works fine, which wasn’t so when I tried the old one in the donor movement, so it’s staying that way! 🙂

Posted in Vintage Watches | Tagged , | 5 Comments

Cosmotron Display

It’s nice to find bits and pieces that add to a collection – some time ago I found a small shop display for the Cosmotron models. Dating from the early 1970s, it holds three watches – here’s a little ‘fly by’:

http://s282.photobucket.com/user/Sweephand/media/Cosmotron%205800/CosmoTrioVid.mp4.html?sort=3&o=1

Although the three models on the stand share the same dial design, the one in the centre has the 0840 movement, which runs at 21,600 beats per hour and dates from 1972. It also carries the X8 logo: https://sweep-hand.org/2012/09/18/this-weeks-featured-watch-40-the-cosmotron-x8-0840/. The other two are slightly later models, now without the X8 mark, and run at twice the speed – 43,200 beats per hour. This is the 5800 movement, Citizen’s fastest beating vintage watch with a conventional balance assembly. These two date from 1974 and 1975: https://sweep-hand.org/2011/09/21/this-weeks-featured-watch-14-the-cosmotron-5800/

Posted in Vintage Watches | Tagged , , | Leave a comment

Minor Restoration – Major Improvement….

Sometimes an interesting watch arrives after an exciting search and auction bid. One example is my Seven Star Rally Custom – a model that was high on my ‘I want one of those’ list but took a while to find. Here it is on arrival:

Overall this looked pretty good, and ran well too. But….those hands are not nice to look at! So off the watch went to have them re-painted to their original spec. After an impatient wait, the watch came back looking like this:

Now that looks easier on the eye! And it is how it should be. Well, not quite, since the original has a pale blue second hand – that’s something I could do myself, so here is the final result:

Now I’m happy 🙂

Posted in Vintage Watches | Tagged , , | 3 Comments

Some Chronographs

After the last post, showing some classicly simple watches, here is the other end of the vintage spectrum – the mechanical chronographs of the 1970s. These models use either the single sub-dial 8100a movement, or the two sub-dial 8110a version. They illustrate the variety of case styles and colours which became popular in the ’70s:

SONY DSC

Posted in Vintage Watches | Tagged , | 9 Comments

Some Hand Winders

Been very busy over the last week after the birth of a second grandchild 🙂   Posts have been a bit thin as a result, but I hope to get back on track now.  In the meantime here’s one of my boxes, with some of the nicest vintage models in my view. Straightforward, elegant pieces with no complications, these hand winders all run great and I think all have appeared in the ‘This week’s Featured Watches’ posts bar the Deluxe from 1959, which is on the Deluxe page:

SONY DSC

Posted in Vintage Watches | Tagged | 3 Comments

4 Automatic Sports Watches x2

Citizen’s largest vintage watches were sports models, made in the late 1960s and early 1970s. With cases of just over 40mm, they came in a variety of styles as well as the more 150m familiar divers. Here are four examples which illustrate the various designs:

The top three all have inner rotating rings – from left to right they are for rallying, diving and yachting. The lower model is the unusual Challenge Golf which has a high-beat movement and a scoring counter.

A further grouping of 4 can be made when the yachting watch, at top right, is joined by other models which use the same case:

Second from the left, the Seven Star Yacht Custom  is the odd one out here since it uses the earlier 25 jewel 5290 movement. The other three use the 23 jewel 7290 movement which replaced the earlier design. 

These sports models can be very hard to find these days – they would be a nice focus for a collection in their own right….

Posted in Vintage Watches | Tagged , | 10 Comments

Citizen’s 1962 31j Chronometer – Accuracy Standards

Further to my last post about Bill’s Chronometer, and Marko’s comments about the Japanese certificate, here are some more scans of Citizen’s standards for this watch in the 1960s. First is a certificate showing the standards that had been met:

Next is the Rating Certificate which shows how the watch being tested performed against these standards – as you can see it achieved significantly better results:

Note that the ‘mean daily rate’ variation was less than a second 🙂

The date at the bottom of the above certificate is in the ‘Showa’ period, and equates to 29th September 1965.

The next document shows results against the different tests:

Finally, this scan, although in Japanese, shows how the standards were changed from 1955 to 1961:

The Swiss COSC chronometer standard from 1961 to 1973 required a mean daily rate in five positions of -1/+10, so Citizen were using the same approach. As far as I know (unlike Seiko) they never entered any movements in the COSC competitions in the 1960s. The certificates in these scans look to be Citizen’s own – in 1968 the Japan Chronometer Inspection Institute was founded, but I’ve not seen any standards / certificates published by the JCII. I would assume that they at least matched the Swiss standards.

Posted in Vintage Watches | Tagged , | Leave a comment

Bill’s Hand-wind 31 jewel Chronometer

Following Jim’s diver, here’s another watch from a blog visitor. Bill commented about his 31 jewel hand wound chronometer and kindly gave permission to use the photos he sent me 🙂 Full credit goes to Bill for the four watch images posted here.

Citizen’s first true Chronometer was produced in 1962 and is now a sought after piece. It is rarely seen outside of Japan – in Japan they sell for big money! The majority I’ve seen are gold filled, occasionally solid gold, with fewer in stainless steel. Bill’s is a steel one:

The dial is of a classic design, and carries the Eagle emblem, which is repeated on the case back medallion:

The serial number gives a production date of April 1965 – these models were probably not made much later than that as automatics became more the norm. Here’s the inside of the case back:

And here’s a great shot of the high grade movement – note the unique movement number and fine adjuster on the balance:

As far as I understand it, these Chronometers were made to Citizen’s own standards, which probably exceeded the Swiss COSC measures at that time. Here’s a scan of the relevant certificate:

I’m very grateful to Bill for allowing use of his photos – this is a significant watch and it’s great to be able to show it in this post. 

Posted in Vintage Watches | Tagged , | 6 Comments

Jim’s Diver, a 52-0110 from 1978

After a ‘comment’ from Jim about his vintage diver, he kindly agreed that I could use his photos 🙂  Rather than post them in comments, I wanted to feature them in a post on the home page, since it is great to see a watch that has been owned from new by the same person:

Jim bought this watch in 1978, the year it was made, whilst in Japan. The model number is 52-0110, so it uses the 8200 movement first produced in 1975.  The case number, 4-820789, also provides a clear indication of the movement used. Here’s the back:

Many thanks to Jim for sending the photos and giving permission for their use here – full credit to Jim for the images of course.

For more information about Citizens mechanical divers, see here: https://sweep-hand.org/citizens-vintage-divers-1962-to-1980/

Posted in Vintage Watches | Tagged | 6 Comments

Jet Automatic Page Update

I’ve done a couple of minor edits to the page on the Jet Automatics, firstly to clarify which models/movements did and didn’t have hand winding, and secondly a note about the ‘Seven’ models.

Posted in Vintage Watches | 2 Comments